Let’s Start on Top

ost owners take the roof for granted. Let’s be honest: how many of you have never been on top to inspect the seals, seams and general condition of the material? Good maintenance practices will help get the most life out of any roof. Rubber roofs (EPDM), for example, will last for more than 10 years with (at minimum) annual inspections and consequential maintenance/repairs. As a matter of fact, the roof-material is often warranted for 10 or more years if proper care is evident.

Start the inspection process by checking all around the vents, end caps, antennas and transition seams to verify that the sealant is not cracked, peeled or generally in disrepair. If the sealant is cracked and starting to peel, you may be able to cover the old stuff with fresh self-leveling sealant, but that really doesn’t last very long — scraping and resealing is the most effective way to ensure a moisture-tight bond. Sealing end caps and/or transition seams can also be treated with new sealant or you can apply Eternabond tape, which will last much longer but is not as pretty.

Get up on the roof and check all the seams around the vents, skylights and other accessories to make sure there are no major cracks or breaches where water can penetrate the roof. It’s possible to add sealant over existing material, but not as effective. It’s best to scrape off the old sealant and apply the new material designed for your roof type. Another good way to seal seams is to use Eternabond tape, which is not as pretty but will last longer.

Keep it Rolling — and Stopping

nnual brake and wheel bearing inspection and service are critical maintenance points in order to prevent failure(s) — and possible safety issues. Also, a good practice is to walk around the RV when taking a break from driving, like when stopping at a rest stop. I have discovered tire issues during visual inspections even before they were recognized by the tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). Make no mistake, I swear by the use of a TPMS, but problems like a bubble in the sidewall — which is all too common on a trailer tire — won’t make themselves known to the monitoring system until they let loose…with catastrophic results.

On a recent trip over a steep pass (up to a 26% grade), RV Enthusiast Publisher Bob Livingston stopped to cool down the brakes on his fifth wheel, which proved to be a good decision. Even with disc brakes and an exhaust brake on his RAM truck, the fifth-wheel’s brakes were starting to get hot, which was obvious from the smell they emitted. And Livingston had performed a brake job and repacked the bearings on the fifth wheel before setting out on his trip; had he not, the outcome might’ve been a lot worse. This incident alone is a good reason to inspect the brakes and bearings before you embark — and if you suspect that you’re using a lot of service brake during your travels, stop and check them.

Bearings and brakes on trailers must be inspected and serviced annually or every 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. Remove the hub and drum assembly (electric brakes) or hub and rotor assembly (disc brakes, shown) to access the grease seal and inner bearing. Always use new grease seals on reassembly.

The wheel bearings on trailer chassis should be removed and inspected annually or, as prescribed by the axle manufacturers, every 12,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. The hub and drum assembly (or disc brake rotor) needs to be removed in order to gain access to the inner bearing and grease seal. The grease seal must be replaced once it has been removed. In order to inspect the bearings properly you will need to wipe most of the grease from the surface to check for discoloration, pitting or rust, which all contribute to eminent failure.

Once you clean the bearings, a decision can be made whether they need to be replaced; in either case, you’ll have to pack the bearings. (See “Get Your Bearings” in the September 2022 issue of RV Enthusiast for step-by-step instructions). Clean the bearings with paint thinner or something that will dissolve the grease; be sure that you blow into the roller bearings to make sure there is no residual grease chunks lurking inside. Old timers can repack bearings by hand, but if you are not in that category, use a bearing packer, which can be found easily on Amazon or at auto parts stores. My go-to grease is Lucas Oil Red “N” Tacky Grease (available at auto parts stores and Amazon), which can handle high temperatures and holds up under severe service. I also recommend having a notebook handy (or put notes on a smartphone) with the service intervals required by the axle manufacturer and the mileage recorded from individual trips. That way, you’ll know at a glance when they need to be serviced again.

It only takes a few minutes to check the condition of the fan belts on any engine. Most engines have serpentine belts, which are needed for the alternator, water pump and other accessories. If it breaks, you’re in for a long walk unless, of course, you keep a spare on hand.

There is far more maintenance required on a motorhome chassis because it has running gear. Just like a tow vehicle, you need to stay on top of oil and filter changes, transmission service, and more. Make sure the radiator and hoses are inspected for damaged fins, debris build-up and leaks. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for antifreeze service — and make sure you use the right product when flushing and replenishing the radiator. Test kits for checking antifreeze condition are available at auto parts stores.

Engine belts and hoses are often overlooked, but they, too, need to be inspected and replaced at recommended intervals to prevent breakage, which will disable your engine very quickly. You can inspect the belts with a bright flashlight, but I would recommend leaving that process to professional mechanics.

Always torque trailer wheel lug nuts before each trip. You’ll be surprised how quickly they loosen up. Consider torquing the lug nuts before leaving the RV park. It only takes a few minutes to avert possible disaster.

Tire longevity is a real bugaboo for RV owners. Trailer tires get the brunt of the problems out there because of the proliferation of poor-quality Special Trailer (ST) tires on the market. Tires should not be allowed to age out and proper inflation pressure is paramount — along with proper loading. Check the age of your tires via the DOT code located on the sidewall of each tire. If the tires are more than six years old, they should be replaced, regardless of tread condition. Trailer tires see a lot of abuse from driving too fast, underinflation, overloading, terrible roads and intense sun. Also, the trailers tend to sit a long time between trips, adding to the deterioration of the sidewalls. This may seem radical, but many trailerists replace their tires every three years, even if the tread looks good. While that may under the specified time-out period, cheaply made tires tend to fail sooner than major reputable brands like Goodyear and Cooper. Making the investment in tires sooner than later is just added insurance against unexpected disruptions in any trip.

A final note for trailer owners: Always torque the lug nuts to specifications before every trip and frequently while on the road.

RV tires usually time out before the tread is worn to unsafe levels. Always replace tires after six years, even if the tread looks good.

A lot of motorhomes do not come with spare tire and wheel assemblies because of their size and weight, which makes flat repairs on the road much more problematic. Do yourself a favor and buy a roadside assistance plan. Most owners are not qualified or even able to remove motorhome tires, especially those on Class As. While air pressure, loading and age play equal roles when dealing with motorhome tires, an additional service component is out-of-spec front-end alignment, which can lead to premature tire failure and possible loss of steering control when a front tire blows out.

Also, the rear inside dual tires seem to have more problems than the outside tire. This may be due to a lack of inspection as they are hard to get to or impossible to see. Consider visiting a capable tire store and have the inside duals inspected annually.

Comforts of Home

oo many owners take appliances for granted, perhaps because because old timers were conditioned to appliances in a home lasting for a long time. Of course, that’s not necessarily true any longer and RV appliances lie dormant for long periods of time, so there are usually more surprises at start-up. Appliances that rely on LP-gas require proper pressure to operate as intended (which is 11 ½ inches of water column). That’s determined by the regulator, whether a dual stage attached to motorhome LP-gas tank or the switchover type used on dual cylinder systems in towables.

In particular, water heaters and refrigerators require more cleaning than other appliances because of the size of the burner and exposure to environmental conditions through the outside vents. Most times, a visual inspection will pinpoint potential problems. Make sure you inspect the water heater burner (conventional models), the gas valve and wiring; use a flashlight to check the condition of the electrode.

A LP-gas pressure drop-down (leak) test should be performed on any RV once a year or any time the system has been opened for repair. Chasing LP-gas leaks on the road is no fun and can lead to dangerous situations. Remember to replace any LP-gas regulator after five years, regardless of perceived condition. While you’re at it, inspect the hoses, which become brittle over time.

Suburban water heaters use an anode rod, which is a sacrificial rod that protects the tank from corrosion and should be removed and replaced at least annually (more frequently if you live in an area with highly corrosive water). Suburban and Atwood water heater deposits can be cleaned with a Camco RV Hot Water Tank Rinser (Amazon; $12) or similar tool. Turn the water heater on and visually check the burner to make sure the flame is burning blue and not half yellow. Make sure the burner tube is clear or obstructions, like spider webs.

If you have an absorption refrigerator, remove the exterior access panel and visually check the wiring along with any dust and/or dirt buildup on the absorber coils, which are only visible in the lower section. The burner is behind an inspection panel, which should be removed to check the condition of the burner slots, identifying any corrosion and rust that reduces the BTU capability. Blow out the burner with air pressure via the slots that are in the burner tube. I don’t recommend that you remove the orifice and attempt cleaning; that should be left to a professional.

Use a flushing tool, like this one from Camco, to clean out the sediment in the bottom of the water heater tank. It simply connects to a water hose and shoots a strong stream downward into the tank, forcing out the crud.

Turn on the refrigerator LP-gas mode and inspect the flame; it should be blue with almost no yellow. Make sure that the electrode is hitting the flame and that it turns a reddish color as it gets hot. If the electrode is not glowing red, it’s not far enough into the flame, which could cause an ignition problem.

LP-gas is a key energy source for most RVs, although all electric systems are rapidly gaining in popularity. A failure of the LP-gas system will result in a refrigerator that’s not cooling properly, or a stove that provides no heat — and the same scenario holds true for water heaters and furnaces. If your propane regulator is more than five years old, replace it, no matter the perceived condition. At the same time, check the hoses; they become brittle and deteriorate over time. Have the system pressure checked with a manometer annually to make sure the pressure is at the requisite 11 ½ inches of water column and that the system is leak free.

Make it a habit to check the build-up of rust and debris in the absorption refrigerator burner area. Use compressed air through a nozzle (no more than 100 psi) to clean out the loose stuff. It takes a small nozzle to clean through the air vent in the burner tube. Spiders, mud daubers and birds like to hang out in this area.

An easy way to self-check for LP-gas leaks is to utilize the flags in an automatic changeover regulator. Make sure all the appliances are off and then close both cylinders. Note how long it takes for the indicator to change from green to red. If the red indicator shows within 10 to 30 minutes, the system has a leak. Of course, the bigger the leak, the faster the indicator will change to red. From there, you can check the connections/fittings with a commercial leak detector or Dawn dishwashing soap and water.

Travel trailers and fifth wheels with dual LP-gas cylinders have an automatic regulator to switch sources. This regulator can also be used to check for LP-gas leaks in the system. All you do is turn off all the gas appliances and then close the valves on both cylinders. If the indicator goes from green to red within 10-30 minutes, there’s likely a leak. Leak locations can be discovered using a commercial leak tester or original-formula Dawn dishwashing soap and water; just watch for bubbles.

On the Level

eveling jacks make set-up and take down a snap, especially when tied to an automatic system, but when they fail, get ready for plenty of stress. If they fail to retract the morning you need to vacate your RV site, you will find yourself in a bad situation, especially if the next renter is waiting in the wings.

Electric leveling jacks do not require much in the way of maintenance, although it’s good idea to extend the legs before leaving on a trip to make sure that they’re clean and free of anything that can impact movement. Inspect all the jacks for rust pitting or any damage to the ram. The ram on each jack does all the work, so it’s imperative that it is smooth and clean. I recommend using a dry lube on the rams when they are in the extended position; this will not only promote a smooth action but will extend the life of the ram — and should be done for hydraulic jacks, as well.

Hydraulic leveling jacks, on the other hand, have more moving parts and need a closer inspection. The most basic check is for fluid level; reservoirs may have a fill line, and some have individual reservoirs attached to each jack. Pull out the owner’s guide and make sure the reservoir is filled properly when the jacks are retracted. Most systems use basic automatic transmission fluid; it not a bad idea to carry an extra quart of fluid in your supply kit.

Before heading out, check the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the leveling jack system (and slideouts, if applicable). Fluid level should be checked when the jacks and slideout rooms are retracted. Here, all six fifth wheel jacks were extended, so the fluid only seems low. Don’t top off fluid at this point, or you’ll find puddles in the compartment and on the ground.

Inspect the pump assembly and the tank for leaks; a small leak can develop into a large one and, over time, the fluid level in the reservoir can get low enough to prevent proper jack function.

Every year the fluid should be changed, removing as much as you can physically get out. To do so, you will need to retract all of the jacks before you remove the fluid from the reservoir. This can be done with a simple suction pump (available at any auto parts store) which has a hose on either end so you can remove the fluid easily (and also use it to fill the reservoir with new fluid).

There are still many older leveling jack systems out there on motorhomes that have a spring that help the jack retract. Take the time to inspect the springs and replace them, if necessary.

Tanks A Lot

olding tanks are a necessary evil if you want a self-contained RV. Most RVs have one “black” tank for body waste and one gray water tank (some models may have multiples of either one). The use of chemicals in both tanks will circumvent that nasty odor that can permeate the RV park and insult your nose, and chemicals also can help keep the tank sidewalls clean and give the monitor sensor probes a fighting chance. Most level monitors are inaccurate because the build-up of crud on the sensors limits conductivity between the probe and liquid level (except for those probes that are mounted on the outside of the tanks).

Tank-flush systems are your hedge against clogs and build-up on sensors. Fortunately, RV manufacturers now provide tank clean-out systems in many units and for those who don’t have such a convenience, there are aftermarket kits on the market. If you can access the side of the holding tank, then you should be able to install a clean-out like the Camco Quickie Flush (see “Flushing Troubles Away,” April 2023 issue of RV Enthusiast).

If your RV is not equipped with a back holding tank flushing device, you can add one as long as you have access to the side of the tank. Here, a Camco Quickie Flush spray nozzle was installed in the tank, replacing the factory nozzle, which only provided an anemic stream of water.

Even if you flush the tank(s) after every dumping, you should consider having the tanks pressure washed at least once a year. Believe it or not, gray water tanks can be coated with scum and can stink worse than the black tank. There are several service technicians (usually part of a mobile service company) who insert a high-pressure hose through the termination pipe and into the tanks where water up to 2,000 psi is used to force out “stuff” that has taken refuge on the sidewalls and floor of the tanks. I would recommend this service at least once a year, especially if the RV is lived in one place for long periods of time.

Open and close the dump valves; they should be smooth and lock into place without undue force. Black tank valves are the most vulnerable to failure as there is obviously a lot of grit and waste that can fill the blade channel — to the point where the cable pull becomes restricted and/or the T-handles get into a bind.

The moral of this story: Don’t wait until you dump the tanks for the first time in an RV park to discover that the valves are going to stick. If they don’t feel right, consider replacing the valve(s) before leaving for a trip. The fix in the field can be mighty messy — and campground owners will likely sneer at the repair.

Smooth Sliding

lideout rooms are wonderful — until you push the button and nothing happens. Most slide-out problems can be mitigated with proper care. For example, if the room mechanism makes a terrible squealing or grinding when moving in and out, it’s signaling you that lubrication is necessary. The operating mechanisms, whether it’s cable, rack-and-pinion or hydraulic, should be inspected carefully annually. The motor and gearbox assemblies are generally buried under an underbelly or inside of a compartment, making them more difficult to inspect. You may want to have the underbelly cut and modified with a zipper patch, which allows you open the area that needs to be lubricated. A lubrication product that works well for rack-and-pinion systems is CRC Power Lube High Performance Lubricant w/PTFE, available on Amazon for $14.35 (11-ounce aerosol can).

The rack-and-pinion system has gears and a rail with teeth. Owners are constantly wondering (because it seem logical) if this area needs to be greased, but the answer is a definite “No” — grease attracts dust and dirt, which will cause premature wear. It is also necessary to inspect the brackets and all the visible hardware that operate the slideout. Make sure that all the bolts are tight and there are no obvious signs of premature wear.

In order to lubricate the slideout rack-and-pinion mechanism, you’ll need access through the belly pan. A permanent access port can be cut using a glue-on zipper trap flap. These 18 x 18-inch, self-adhesive panels are available on Amazon for $13. Check out “Mobile Home Belly Bottom Repair Trap Flap.”

Hydraulic slideouts have a ram very similar to those on electric leveling systems, which should be always inspected and kept clean. Make sure that there’s no rust or pitting that could cause failure to the seal as the slideout goes in and out. The automatic transmission fluid in the pump assembly should also be changed once a year. Inspect the motor, pump and especially the hoses; hose failure will make it nearly impossible to operate the slideout.

The Schwintek mechanism only requires periodic cleaning and a dose of dry lubricant.

Inspect the teeth and gear on the rack and pinion hardware that supports and guides the slideout. Make sure there are no teeth missing and are not covered with dirt. These should not be greased, which will attract dirt and road grime. Check the rack bracket bolts (used to adjust slideout height) for tightness. The jam nuts for the stop must not be loose. This adjustment should be reserved for experienced RV technicians.

Schwintek slideout mechanism only needs cleaning and a shot of dry lube. Oil or grease will, again, attract dirt that can lead to premature failure. Take a few minutes to check these rails before leaving on your trip.

Power Up

atteries, especially lead-acid starting batteries for engines, can quit literally out of nowhere, but many times the battery itself is not the lone culprit. Before every trip, clean and inspect the cables and terminals for corrosion and/or possible bad connections. Replace the terminals with the recommended size and type, and if necessary, replace the entire cable.

Check the date code on the batteries to determine their age. Motorhomes tend to sit for quite a while versus tow vehicles that are typically used as daily drivers. It’s best to connect a trickle (also called a maintenance charger) to any lead acid battery that will sit in storage, if you don’t have a solar system. There are a number of good maintenance chargers on the market. The one I use is the Xtreme Charger from PulseTech (pulsetech.com). If the batteries have open cells (water filling caps) you will need to keep an eye on the level at all times and top them off with distilled water before hitting the road. It’s not a bad idea to check the voltage at the house batteries with the engine running, when hooked up to power, and if equipped, the generator to determine that the charging systems are functioning properly.

Battery voltage should be checked before venturing out, especially if any appliance or accessory that runs on 12-volt DC power is giving you fits. As you can see, the voltage on the lithium battery is good but the voltage on the open cell, golf cart battery is too low (after charging) — meaning the battery is toast (okay, sulfated and not accepting a charge for you techies out there).

Lithium batteries are charged at a different rate, which usually precludes using common engine alternators. There are a few companies out there that make a DC-DC device that goes between the alternator and the house batteries to provide proper charging. Check out the Redarc Dual Input DC-DC chargers at redarcelectronics.com.

Although keeping RVs in tip-top shape seems daunting, most of the service/maintenance can be easily accomplished by do-it-yourselfers. And you don’t have to finish in one day. In the end, you’ll be glad you took the time to assure trouble-free journeys.

Lithium batteries do not charge properly from a typical engine alternator. Redarc’s Dual Input DC-DC Charger provides the right voltage via the charge line. It also can be used for open cell and AGM batteries.