A Strong Base

A Strong Base

The baseplate is the first thing you’ll need after you choose a dinghy vehicle. Here’s how to find and install one

By Chris Hemer
photos by the author

nce you have verified that the vehicle you plan to tow behind your motorhome is, in fact, towable, the first step toward outfitting it for dinghy duty is the base plate. Unlike a travel trailer — which was designed to be attached behind another vehicle — a car, truck or SUV was never intended to be towed for recreational purposes. So, the baseplate serves as the attachment point for a tow bar, which is most connected to the motorhome via its hitch receiver when you’re ready to tow.

A Strong Base

The baseplate is the first thing you’ll need after you choose a dinghy vehicle. Here’s how to find and install one

By Chris Hemer
photos by the author

Technically speaking, a base plate isn’t a “plate” at all, but a carefully engineered steel structure that attaches to the vehicle’s frame and/or bumper brackets to distribute the load of towing and braking evenly. Because baseplates are application-specific, the leading manufacturers all offer fit lists for their base plates; you can simply go to their websites and enter the make, model and year of the vehicle in question to find out if there is a baseplate available for it (see sidebar).

In addition, all companies provide installation instructions for their baseplates, so you’ll know what’s involved in the task. This is important, because not all baseplates install in the same manner. Depending on the vehicle, installing the “baseplate” could be as simple as a couple of brackets that attach to the bumper mounts and require little modification to install, or a complex structure with dozens of fasteners that may require the whole front fascia of the vehicle to be removed. Downloading or reading the installation instructions while shopping for a baseplate will give you a clearer picture of what’s involved in the installation — and a better idea of what labor costs will be.

2017 Chevy Equinox fitted with a Roadmaster baseplate

Contemporary vehicle baseplate systems are nearly invisible, even when the vehicle is ready to tow, like this 2017 Chevy Equinox fitted with a Roadmaster baseplate.

Unlike early baseplates and their accompanying mounts (which sometimes marred the appearance of the vehicle), today’s baseplate systems are designed to be nearly invisible when not in use. However, they may require certain portions of the grille or facia to be trimmed, so the overall success of the tow bar installation is dependent on the mechanic. With that in mind, search for a shop or dealership that is familiar with baseplate installations and has good customer ratings. The baseplate manufacturer of your choice may also be able to provide you with recommended dealers/shops in your area.

Once installed, keep in mind that a baseplate is a mechanical component that requires periodic checks, just like lug nuts, brakes and tire pressure. Because base plates are subjected to fore-aft loading, road impacts and vibration, they should be routinely checked for loose fasteners, stress cracks and other dangers that could cause the base plate to come loose or fail during travel. If you don’t have the experience or the tools to do this yourself, have the vehicle inspected by the installer (or some other vehicle technician) periodically. The baseplate manufacturer of your choice can provide you with inspection/maintenance guidelines.

mechanic removes vehicle front fascia to fit baseplate

mechanic uses special tool to remove plastic fasteners

1a,b (7420,7421)The Equinox is one application that requires removal of the entire front fascia in order to fit the baseplate. This is not as hard as it seems, however, as the fascia is lightweight and held in place by small fasteners. First the screws along the top of the fascia are removed, followed by button fasteners that should be removed with a special tool. Trying to remove these with a flat-blade screwdriver will damage them and the probably the plastic surface as well. Google “plastic fastener remover” and you’ll find many choices for $10 or less.

Although a baseplate is typically installed by a professional it is possible for a competent home mechanic to install one, depending on the complexity of the individual application. We recently stopped by Roadmaster’s headquarters in Vancouver, Washington, and observed as the company’s #523184-5 base plate was installed on a 2017 Chevy Equinox, one of the more popular dinghy vehicles on the market today. Installation took roughly two hours for a professional that does this sort of work nearly every day, so you should allow yourself considerably more time (depending on your skill level) if you plan to take on the job yourself.

Fit to Be Towed

Wondering if an RV supplier makes a suitable baseplate for your dinghy — and would like to see your options for tow bars as well? These links will deliver all the information you need.

Baseplates
Blue Ox: blueox.com/baseplates-sorting/
Demco Products: demco-products.com/rv-towing/baseplates
Roadmaster: fitmaster.roadmasterinc.com/

Tow Bars
Blue Ox: blueox.com/recreational-commercial-flat-towing/tow-bars/
Demco Products: demco-products.com/rv-towing/tow-bars
Roadmaster: roadmasterinc.com/products/towbars/index.php

mechanic removes Torx head fastener from inner fender panel

Along the inner fender panels, you’ll find additional button fasteners, as well as Torx head fasteners. Don’t ask us why they don’t just use one or the other.

mechanic gently tugs the fascia to release from clips

Once all of the fasteners have been removed, the fascia is given a few gentle tugs to release it from the clips.

view of area behind the recently removed fascia

With the fascia removed, you can see how it is secured at the front and bottom of the wheel liners.

inner bumper structure is unbolted with a drill

The inner bumper structure is unbolted and removed. The baseplate structure will take its place, so it can be discarded, or saved if you think you may want to return the vehicle to stock condition at some point.

view of exposed front of vehicle, with inner structure removed

With the inner structure removed, you can see that there is now room to mount the baseplate structure.

mechanic cuts end of the plastic inner air dam with an air saw

The ends of the plastic inner air dam assembly prevent the baseplate from being mounted flush, so they are cut off with an air saw.

Here, you can see where the end of the inner air dam has been neatly cut away.

using a plastic fastener remover, mechanic frees harness without damage

This harness was clipped to the front bumper bracket, so the plastic fastener remover is used again to free the harness without damaging the clip.

The main baseplate structure is then bolted in place using the same holes that secured the inner bumper.

side view of installed baseplate structure

From the side, you can see the integrated sockets into which the baseplate arms will be inserted when it’s time to tow. The bar also has mounts for the power cord receptacle and breakaway device.

view of baseplate structure with extra brackets

Using the bumper bracket mounting points alone would not provide a rigid enough mount for the base plate, so other brackets in the kit reinforce the main baseplate structure by tying in to the vehicle’s inner sheetmetal.

view of underside of baseplate structure

Another bracket ties the main baseplate structure into the front subframe of the vehicle. Once all of the brackets have been installed and everything looks right, the fasteners are all tightened at once (see lead image). It is recommended that a few drops of red thread locker are used on the fasteners to prevent them from loosening. However, Roadmaster still specifies that the baseplate be checked for loose fasteners or other potential problems every 3,000 miles.

wiring harness secured to baseplate structure with nylon cables

Because this wiring harness was attached to the inner bumper, and the bumper is no longer being used, it is secured to the main baseplate structure with nylon cable ties.

mechanic trims lower fascia to allow baseplate structure arms

close view of re-installed fascia with no visible trim

The lower fascia required minor trimming to allow the baseplate arms to slide easily into the sockets. The trimming is not visible even when the arms are not in place.

Because this wiring harness was attached to the inner bumper, and the bumper is no longer being used, it is secured to the main baseplate structure with nylon cable ties.

The lower fascia required minor trimming to allow the baseplate arms to slide easily into the sockets. The trimming is not visible even when the arms are not in place.

Sources:

Blue Ox
(800) 228-9289
blueox.com

Demco Products
(800) 543-3626
demco-products.com

Roadmaster Inc.
(800) 669-9690
roadmasterinc.com

How to Choose the Right Tow Bar

Tow bars have come a long way since the first one was crafted in a small shop sometime in the 1970s. Who knew that a simple A-frame design would evolve into a multi-million-dollar cottage industry with so many designs to choose from? While basic designs are still available, today’s lighter materials and manufacturing techniques have allowed tow bars to evolve, making contemporary tow bars stronger and easier to use. But with so many choices, how do you know what’s best for you?

Like hitches, tow bars have weight ratings — so the first step is to determine how much your vehicle weighs when it is full of fuel and cargo. All of the tow bars on the market today are rated for at least 5,000 pounds, which covers just about every passenger car and small/midsize SUV out there, so from a capability standpoint even the least-expensive bar will do the job. However, many RVers load camping gear and other supplies into the vehicle’s cargo area, then may strap more gear to the roof rack — all of which can add several hundred pounds (or more) to the vehicle manufacturer’s “curb weight.” When in doubt, check the specifications of the vehicle you plan to tow and shop for an appropriately rated tow bar — or better yet, choose one that is rated for more than you plan to tow.

Ascent tow bar installed between an RV and car

Available for 2 and 2.5-inch receivers, the aircraft-grade aluminum Ascent tow bar from Blue Ox has a 7,500-pound rating and features non-binding latches and offset triple lugs to make unhooking easier. Rubber boots prevent dirt from getting into the legs and safety cables are included. Shown here is model BX4370 with a Blue Ox drop receiver, which may be necessary to keep the tow bar level with the towed vehicle. Blue Ox offers a variety of steel tow bars as well, all the way up to a 20,000-pound rating.

The next thing you may want to consider when comparing several bars in the same category is the product weight. While it’s true that the bar will spend the majority of its time either mounted to the car or the motorhome, you will have to grapple with it on occasion — and it’s then that you’ll be glad you purchased the lightest possible model.

Next come the features. You might be thinking, “How many benefits can you pack into a bar that simply connects a vehicle and a motorhome?” You’d be surprised. Early A-frame designs required that you positioned the dinghy vehicle at a specific distance from — and parallel to — the motorhome so that it could be connected. Then, the ground had to be level or connecting would be difficult, while disconnecting could be near impossible if the dinghy and motorhome were off level at different angles. Today, there are bars with independently adjustable arms that allow you to connect your dinghy vehicle even if it’s not parallel to the motorhome, and so-called “non-binding” tow bars that (you guessed it) won’t bind on uneven ground.

display view of the Excali-Bar II steel tow bar

The Excali-Bar II steel tow bar from Demco Products offers the highest rating in its tow bar line at an impressive 10,500 pounds. Weighing in at just 46 pounds, Excali-Bar II features independent arms and an easy trigger-release system for fast hookup/release and a vertical bolt design that allows the user to maneuver the tow bar one leg at a time. A 1-1/2-inch rise/drop receiver tube comes standard.

The more expensive tow bar designs don’t use a ball-and-coupler (trailer hitch) arrangement; the towbar shank goes directly into the motorhome’s hitch receiver and stays there. When you’re not using it, the bar simply folds up out of the way and stays on the motorhome in its own cover. Some bars have channels built into the body through which the power and/or safety cables are routed, which not only prevents them from dragging but also makes for a cleaner appearance. So yeah, there are a lot of features in today’s tow bars to take into consideration when comparison shopping.

Keep in mind, too, that each manufacturer engineers its products to work with other products in the same family and aren’t necessarily designed to work with another manufacturer’s products. However, most manufacturers provide details on mounting considerations and available solutions. For example, Blue Ox, Demco and Roadmaster all offer adapters that make it possible to connect their tow bars to a competitor’s base plate; you’ll typically find these in the tow bar section of each company’s website.

Nighthawk steel tow bar installed on car

Roadmaster offers a wide range of steel and aluminum tow bars, but its latest is the 8,000-pound-rated Nighthawk, the first illuminated tow bar. Featuring sleek, powder-coated aluminum outer arms and solid stainless-steel inner arms, the Nighthawk incorporates a proprietary non-binding Freedom Latch and what the company claims are the longest arms in the industry for the largest hook up radius available. An enclosed channel for power cords and safety cables provides a clean appearance.

Before purchase, make sure you know what is included with your tow bar and what else may be required. Blue Ox and Roadmaster offer complete kits with everything you need to tow (called Accessory Kits and Combo Kits, respectively) while Demco offers a variety of kits and individual options. You can read more about towing accessories elsewhere in this issue.

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