Technically Speaking

TECHNICALLY SPEAKING – Q & A

Zerk Lube Fitting Recall

Hey Bill, I noticed that my 2022 Grand Design fifth wheel had a recall on the axles. I wasn’t sure what they were talking about and how critical it is to have it done, because it’s not easy for me to get my trailer to a Grand Design dealer. We live in our fifth wheel full time and, of course, they want us to leave it, which creates a problem finding a place to live. We’re not sure what to do. What do you suggest?

—John Wilson

John, you’re in luck. I have a 2023 Grand Design fifth wheel under the same recall (NHTSA 23V- 455) and it involves a problem with the Curt axle Zerk fittings. Apparently, these grease fittings were installed at the end of the axle spindles and one or more of them came loose and migrated into the bearings, which created an imminent failure.

The dealer will remove the wheels/tires and the dust cover to the spindle nut and check if the grease fittings are in place. If they loosened, the mechanic will replace it/them or simply tighten any fitting if it’s still intact, which is what I did. All four on my spindles were fairly snug, but I did give them another turn or two just to make absolutely certain that they were tight. While a Grand Design dealer is perfectly willing to check the fittings and make the repairs as required, you can do the same thing yourself or pay someone to inspect and fix the fittings where you live or are storing the fifth wheel. This will eliminate travel and wait time, and likely be less expensive than travel and housing costs. You can also remove the Zerk fittings and screw in plugs with an 1/8-inch pipe thread.

If you search the Internet for Grand Design recalls, you’ll find any that are out there and be able to stay on top of any issues and the necessary fixes.

Clickety Clack

I have a 2006 Fleetwood motorhome and when hooked up to electric at the pedestal, there was a clacking noise that continued for a long time. It would finally stop but soon started up again; the intervals between clacking sessions became more frequent. I started looking around and I found a box where the 50-amp power cord runs through the side of the box — and on the lid it read “transfer switch.” There are other electrical wires coming out of the side of the box as well. I can see that the lid comes off the box, but I was afraid to remove it and start messing around with that electricity. Have you run across this before any suggestions?

—Robert Huntington

Robert, I am very familiar with the transfer switch. It’s best to leave any inspections and testing to the pros, since you shouldn’t mess with electricity unless you’re experienced. High amperage can run through the relays inside of the transfer switch, which is designed to automatically transfer 120-volt AC power from shore power to the generator without having to manually plug the power cord into a junction box that’s usually mounted near the generator.

Over time, high amperage flow can start to deteriorate the contact points or, if the wires didn’t get securely tightened and installed properly, they can literally burn the set screw and block. If this happens the connection is bad and the transfer switch will operate erratically. At this point, it’s time to replace the transfer switch. Hopefully, you can find an exact replacement, but nevertheless, an RV mechanic should be able to make the swap easily and you’ll be back in business.

Refrigerator Swap

My four-door Norcold refrigerator in my 2010 fifth wheel burned out and I am contemplating whether I should put in a 120-volt DC refrigerator or install the newer model Norcold LP-gas/electric refrigerator. I live in the RV full time so, of course, the refrigerator never shuts off, and it would be ideal if I could put in a bigger refrigerator for more food storage. What’s your take on my situation?

—Susan Richardson

Susan, most people will agree that there’s never too much space in a refrigerator, especially in the freezer compartment. The problem that you’re going to run into is the size of the refrigerator opening where your original unit is mounted. When trying to change from one type or model refrigerator to another you’ll have to spend some time measuring the available space, making plans for modifications, if necessary, and finding a plan for securing the refrigerator for travel.

A residential style refrigerator, in many cases, will give you more storage capacity and seems to be popular among full timers. It’s important that the model you choose can take the bouncing and bumps on the road, and finding a way to mount it can be challenging. Also, you’ll need an inverter to run it while traveling and when camping without hookups. Plan on installing good batteries and back it up with a solar system, if you spend time boondocking, which also applies to operating a 12-volt DC refrigerator without hookups.

Probably the most versatile refrigerator is one that runs on 12-volt DC power, which is convenient while on the road. They have a compressor and a frost-free freezer just like a residential model and are easier on the power bills versus operating an LP-gas/electric RV refrigerator when electric is metered or while running on LP-gas.

Another option is to replace the cooling unit in your existing Norcold refrigerator with one that operates on 12-volt DC power. This may not be cost-effective, considering the age of your existing refrigerator and if you spend most of your time in RV parks with hookups.

Breathe Easy

A typical 300-watt pure sine wave inverter.

I rely on a CPAP machine to sleep at night and until now we have not been off the grid without hookups. We plan on camping on the beach with friends and will not have hookups. We do not have a generator in our fifth wheel trailer, nor do we have an inverter and a solar panel to recharge the batteries, largely because up until now we didn’t have to deal with this. Perhaps you could give us a little advice for keeping the machine going.

—Paul Johnson

It just so happens that my girlfriend uses a CPAP machine, so I am familiar with the process. You didn’t mention the CPAP model, but I assume it has a dehumidifier and heated hose, which seems to be the best way to go for most patients. My first suggestion is to get a hose that is not heated and turn off the dehumidifier function since they use quite a bit more power.

You will need either a battery (or pack) that can be recharged with a solar panel or generator and consider — since you don’t boondock often — using a portable inverter that can be plugged into a nearby 12-volt DC outlet. You should be fine with a pure-sine-wave, 300-watt inverter. If you don’t have a nearby 12-volt DC outlet, one can usually be installed. Of course, you can run directly off a generator, but who wants to listen to it all night—and burn gasoline or propane.

You can get by with one Group 31 AGM battery, like the one offered by Odyssey for a few days, but you’ll need a method for recharging. That’s where solar shines. Another option is to use a self-contained power station to run the CPAP machine, and also consider carrying a small generator for backup just in case you find yourself with a flat battery.

Awning Help

I have a 2018 motorhome with the Carefree Travel’R awning. When I extend the awning, it only goes out a little way and then shuts off. When I let off on the switch for a few seconds and then push it again, the awning goes out a little farther but it keeps stopping. It does retract most of the time, but it stops sometimes while retracting. Everything seems to be in good shape, and I don’t understand what’s making it stop every 8 to 10 inches. I would prefer not to replace the whole awning at this point since it’s expensive. Any idea what’s causing the problem?

—Jason Padilla

Jason, this is a typical problem with an older awning that uses gas struts to help extend and retract the awning. I’m assuming that you’ve checked to make sure there’s at least 11 volts DC without a load at the switch; low voltage can create the stopping problem. If the voltage is too low, it can be repaired by replacing the wire that might not be heavy enough, but it can be tricky to route new wire to the motor. Also, use your multimeter to check for bad connections.

If you confirmed the voltage, look carefully at the hardware and make sure it’s not bent. Check the articulating hardware and the upright columns; if it doesn’t close all the way, a component may be bent or out of alignment. The individual hardware pieces for some older awnings may not available. If that’s the case, you would have to purchase an entire hardware kit, if you determine that one of the components is bent. You might be able to find just one side of the hardware online from an Ebay or other seller, but don’t count on it.

If the awning jumps a little bit as it goes out, the gas struts may be sticking or defective. The gas struts may also be weak; replacements should be available, but they are extremely difficult to change and very dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. That’s because they are filled with high-pressure nitrogen and can still be under load. If not done correctly, they can cause serious injury. Always replace both at the same time.

Bill Gehr

Bill started his 50-year career in the RV industry when he went to work for an Airstream dealership. After the gas shortages in the 1970s, Bill decided to start his own business and opened up Bill’s RV Service in Ventura, California. After several years in business, he met Bob Livingston, and together they worked on hundreds of technical editorial projects at his shop while becoming great friends. Bill eventually joined Bob on the TV show “RVtoday,” filming a number of hands-on projects. After retiring, Bill headed out full-time in his fifth wheel and toured 39 states while writing technical articles for Trailer Life and MotorHome magazines. He now is Technical Director for RV Enthusiast.

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