Cruising Vermont
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Making Memories
By Sue Strauss photos by author
Cruising Vermont
The Green Mountain state is known for its rich maple syrup, wonderful cheeses and eye-popping fall scenery — but it also offers travelers a plethora of little-known historical landmarks

Image credit: Hildene.org

Hildene, the summer home of Mary Harlan Lincoln and Todd Lincoln (Abraham Lincoln’s son), is visited by thousands of visitors each year.
L

iving in eastern New York for many years presented many opportunities for me to visit nearby Vermont, a state that boasts a wide variety of exciting travel destinations. Rather than focusing on just one city, a driving tour through Vermont will give visitors a much bigger picture of what this state has to offer. This driving tour through the Green Mountain state covers approximately 170 miles and would make a nice day trip for those staying in nearby RV parks — and provide memorable material for more extensive journeys into this popular region.

Manchester, Vermont

Our driving tour through Vermont begins in Manchester, near the southwest corner of the state about 60 miles northeast of Albany, New York. The city, which lies between the Green Mountains to the east and the Taconic Range to the west, with the Battenkill River flowing through the town, was chartered in 1761 and was primarily an agricultural or farming area for almost a hundred years. Farmers struggled to grow crops in this area, and eventually found that the land was best suited as a grazing area for cows or sheep.

a distant view of a century old dairy farm in Manchester
A typical scene in Vermont, this dairy farm in Manchester is more than a hundred years old.
In 1856, Charles Orvis opened a high-end fly-fishing shop in Manchester, which was the beginning of The Orvis Shop. The American Museum of Fly Fishing was established in close proximity to The Orvis Shop, and is an interesting museum on angling history with more than 40,000 artifacts on display. This fly-fishing museum is housed in an 1800s era farmhouse, located on Main Street in Manchester, and is open Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Admission is $5 for adults.

Another historical site to visit in Manchester is Hildene, the estate of Robert Todd Lincoln (son of President Abraham Lincoln and his wife, Mary Todd Lincoln). Hildene was the summer home of Robert Todd and Mary Harlan Lincoln, and among its 412 acres encompasses the Lincoln’s Georgian revival mansion and 14 historic buildings. The estate is open to the public for self-guided tours, Thursday-Monday, 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Admission is $23 for adults.

If you are an outdoors enthusiast, consider stopping at the Equinox Preserve in Manchester. This 900-acre preserve is on the slope of Mount Equinox (the highest summit in the Taconic Mountains at 3,850 feet). Some of the best walking and hiking trails can be found here. Be sure, too, to check out Mt. Equinox Skyline Drive, the longest privately owned, paved toll road in the United States, ascending 3,248 feet to the top of Mount Equinox. The cost to drive up Skyline Drive is a bit steep at $10 per car plus $2 per passenger, but the spectacular views are well worth the cost. And be sure to fish the Battenkill River in Manchester, which offers some of the best trout fishing in the world.

Dorset, Vermont
From Manchester, continue your drive just 7 miles north to the little town of Dorset, a small town nestled in the hills which was also established in 1761. Dorset is known for being the home of America’s oldest marble quarry. In 1785, Isaac Underhill and Reuben Bloomer harvested marble from the side of Mount Aeolus, located southeast of the city. At this time, the marble was produced for hearths and cemetery headstones.
a rock quarry abutted by a small lake and surrounded by trees
Isaac Underhill opened the first marble quarry in 1785 near Mt. Aeolus. This is the oldest marble quarry in the U.S. Dorset quarries were most active in the early 1800s. This site is now a Vermont Historic Site.

With the advancement of mining techniques, miners could reach deeper into the mountain, harvesting thicker, more compact marble, which could be transported over longer distances. The arrival of the Bennington-Rutland Railroad in 1852 in Dorset allowed marble to be shipped across the U.S. By 1900, the marble mill was operating 24 hours per day, six days a week, and employed hundreds of laborers to quarry, transport, cut, polish and finish the marble. The town of East Dorset grew to include a hotel, schoolhouse, two churches, two general stores, a post office and a train depot. Additional businesses came to East Dorset, including a lumber mill, sawmill, blacksmith shops, a doctor’s office and an attorney. The town was thriving for about 20 years until the introduction of cement in the 1920s. Cement took the place of marble in building materials, and the marble quarries shut down and were abandoned. Within 10 years, all of the businesses in East Dorset closed down and the workers moved away. Today, these quarries have become a popular swimming spot in the town.

The Bill Wilson House is a historic 19th-century hotel located in East Dorset. Built in 1852, it is the birthplace and living memorial to Bill Wilson, co-founder of Alcoholics Anonymous. The building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is open to the public daily. The Griffith Library, located at the Bill Wilson House, houses artifacts and documents about Bill Wilson’s life and the history of alcoholism and its effect on families over the years. This historic house draws thousands of visitors each year from around the world.

Dorset includes thousands of acres of public and conserved lands and is an excellent location for outdoor activities including hiking, fishing, swimming, horseback riding, mountain- and road bicycling and skiing.

Middlebury, Vermont
The next stop on the driving tour is Middlebury, approximately 58 miles north of Dorset. Middlebury was originally part of New Hampshire but was granted to Vermont by Colonial Governor Sir John Wentworth in November 1761. Because of the town’s location in between Salisbury and New Haven, the town was named Middlebury. The town was burned during the Revolutionary War in 1778 but was rebuilt five years later. At this time, the major industries in Middlebury included grain and hay farms, a cotton factory, sawmill and gristmill, a woolen factory and a marble quarry.
upstream view of the Quechee Gorge
Quechee Gorge is a 165-foot-deep gorge that was carved out by glaciers. The Ottauquechee River flows through this gorge and is a popular tourist attraction in Vermont.

In 1800, an elite liberal arts institution was established and named Middlebury College. The town of Middlebury was also the birthplace of some famous people, including Emma Willard who was a founder of schools for women and an activist for women’s rights. Poet and author Robert Frost also grew up in Middlebury.

Today, people visit Middlebury to shop in the downtown Marble Works District and to dine in its many restaurants. The Vermont Folklife Center is another popular attraction, located at 88 Main Street. This nationally known facility studies the cultural fabric of Vermont communities and provides exhibits that depict the legends and lore of the area. The center is currently open to the public Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

Quechee, Vermont

From Middlebury, continue the drive east across the state to the town of Quechee, best known for Quechee Gorge, at 165 feet deep the deepest gorge in Vermont. Carved out by a glacier thousands of years ago, the gorge can be viewed from the U.S. Route 4 bridge and is a popular tourist attraction.

The Vermont Institute of Natural Science (VINS), located in Quechee, was created to educate individuals and communities to care for the environment. VINS operates New England’s premier avian wildlife rehabilitation clinic and also promotes environmental science field research. The Nature Center is open to the public 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Admission fees are $17.50 for adults; $16.50 for seniors. VINS is a great place to visit and you could easily spend several hours touring this facility.

a red covered bridge located in Quechee

Covered bridges, like this one near the town of Quechee, are iconic in Vermont. It is popularly believed that the purpose of the roof on these bridges was to keep snow off the road and to provide shelter for travelers during storms; however, the roofs were actually designed to protect the bridge itself.

Weston, Vermont
From Quechee, the driving tour will take you south about 45 miles to its last stop in Weston. This small town was incorporated in 1799 and was originally the western settlement, or “west town” of Andover — thus the name of Weston. This small town is best known as the home of Vermont’s oldest professional theater. The Weston Playhouse Theatre Co. opened its doors in 1935 and expanded its offerings to include cabaret shows and musicals. Lloyd Bridges began his acting career at this community theater, which continues to provide shows to the community.

The Vermont Country Store, a catalogue and retail business located in Weston, was opened by Vrest Orton in 1946 and became the first restored rural general store in Vermont. Orton was inspired by memories of his father’s general store that once operated in North Calais. The Vermont Country Store continues to do business today — it’s owned and operated by Lyman Orton and sons, fourth- and fifth-generation storekeepers — and is a purveyor of the practical and hard-to-find merchandise.

a bald eagle from the Avian Wildlife Rehabilitation Center at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science
two barred owls from the Avian Wildlife Rehabilitation Center at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science
Wildlife is, as you can imagine, plentiful in this heavily wooded state. This bald eagle and the pair of barred owls are residents of the Avian Wildlife Rehabilitation Center at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science.
One lesser-known site is the Weston Priory, a community of Benedictine monks. This priory was established in 1953 and the Benedictines are best known for songs that they have contributed to Roman Catholic worship.
front view of the Vermont Country Store
The Vermont Country Store in Weston has been owned and managed by the Orton family for five generations. It is a popular stop for tour buses each weekend of the year.

Because this driving tour covers almost 170 miles and many sites to see along the route, you might want to park your RV for a night or two along the way to give yourselves enough time to see all the sites you are interested in. There are several nice RV parks in the area:

  • Dorset RV Park, Dorset (dorsetrvpark.com): This RV Park is open May through October and offers full hook-up sites with 50-amp electric at $49 per night. Full hook-up sites with 30-amp electric are $45 per night and sites with no hook-ups are $28 per night. Pull-through sites are available; free Wi-Fi and cable TV are provided.
  • Branbury State Park, Brandon (vtstateparks.com/branbury.html): The park offers RV sites with no hook-ups for $20 per night. The sites are gravel and there are clean bathrooms and showers. Branbury State Park is approximately 11 miles from the town of Middlebury.
  • Camping on the Battenkill, Arlington (campingonthebattenkill.com): Approximately eight miles from Manchester, this park offers RV sites with full hook-ups for $48 per night. Open April through October.
  • Horseshoe Acres Campground, Andover (horseshoeacrescampground.com): The campground offers full hook-up sites with 50-amp electric for $53 per night and full hook-up sites with 30-amp electric at $47 per night. This campground is located about six miles to Weston.

Vermont is well-known for its beautiful fall foliage and is the largest producer of maple syrup in the United States. There is a lot to see in this small state, so it’s best to spread this driving tour over several days. Give yourselves lots of time to explore the sites, take in the colorful scenery, and make memories of your own in the Green Mountain State.

Suzanne Strauss
Suzanne Strauss portrait

Suzanne Strauss and her husband, Rich, have been full-time RVers for about four years. They started out camping on weekends in a pup tent; eventually, they bought a small single-axle travel trailer to “test the waters” and fell in love with RVing. Now living full-time in a motorhome, they ply the roadways in search of interesting and “off the beaten path” places. She can be reached at: RStrauss22@gmail.com