ike a lot of people, I find myself spending a lot of time on social media. I should be glad that a kid who grew up with a rotary phone in his home and can remember waiting until everyone went to bed in order to download something through AOL’s then “lightning fast” 56k dial-up Internet speed is even semi-computer literate.

I guess the Internet is my umbilical cord. It connects me with friends I haven’t seen since high school, keeps the principals of RV Enthusiast moving together while we work from various locations and lets me monitor — through various RV-related groups — what folks are interested in or need help understanding.

Granted, there are times when I just throw my hands up in frustration while reading certain of these postings…like the guy who, in a group chat about tire-pressure-monitoring systems (TPMS), stated he preferred to rely on his own tire expertise rather than trust a component. He didn’t care for it when I asked how, exactly, he managed to do that while traveling down the highway at 60 mph.

One that really hit me, though, was when someone in one of these groups asked about repacking wheel bearings.

“I didn’t even know this was a thing,” he wrote. “I pinged a couple of friends who have travel trailers and they were like ‘What? Bearings?’ This is simply not common knowledge.”

And he’s right. There are a lot of components on an RV that aren’t covered by even the most extensive walk-though at a dealership. Service technicians are focused on giving new RV owners an overview of how the onboard RV systems work, not on preventative maintenance — and things that don’t directly impact these systems and components are overlooked altogether. So, I asked RVE’s Publisher, Bob Livingston, and its Technical Director, Bill Gehr, to put together a list of things that every RVer needs to be aware of. This list is by no means complete — but it does provide a basis for ensuring that you don’t find yourself a thousand miles away from home with a seized wheel due to bearing failure.

Tires. Keep them covered when the RV is not in use to prevent sidewall damage from UV rays. Don’t exceed their speed limitation — the speed rating for most trailer tires is 65 mph — and don’t be “that guy” who claims to have used the same tires for the last 15 years. Tires should be replaced every six years, regardless of wear. And buy and use a quality TPMS.

Wheels. Always check the lug nuts on travel trailers and fifth wheels before traveling — and use a quality torque wrench. “It may sound excessive,” Livingston said, “but I torque lug nuts before leaving the RV park even if I’ve only been there a day or two. Owners will be surprised how often the lug nuts need retorquing to spec.”

Wheel bearings/brakes. Pull the wheels every year/12,000 miles to check the brakes and service the bearings. Wheel-bearing failure can lead to catastrophic damage.

Weighing. Every RVer should weigh his/her rig — as equipped and stocked for travel — annually to ensure weight hasn’t been allowed to creep up. Overloading an RV can affect towing (especially with a travel trailer) and can result in premature wear-and-tear and running-gear failures. Packing too much “stuff” in the forward compartment of a fifth wheel, for example, can overload the landing gear when hitching and while in set-up mode.

Water system. Unhealthy water can lead to sickness and campgrounds pull their water from a variety of sources. The system should be sanitized twice a year and fully emptied anytime the rig is in storage. Invest in a quality filtration system. In a related vein, check the anode rod annually for wear in RVs equipped with a Suburban water heater; when it needs replacement, consider going to a more expensive magnesium rod, which extends the life of the tank better than an aluminum rod.

Holding tanks. They should be pressure-cleaned annually to help prevent buildup, odors and flow problems. Also, tanks must be at least two-thirds full for proper dump flow — and it’s not advisable to leave the graywater valve open. Gray water creates much of the odor often permeating an RV.

Power consumption. Learn how to manage rated power for 120-volt AC components, based upon your RV’s 30- or 50-amp build — there’s a reason why you can’t run two air-conditioners and a microwave at the same time on 30-amp power— and carry a voltage tester in your onboard toolbox so you can always check voltage at the park pedestal before hooking up and monitor levels when in camp.

Roofs. They should be checked annually — indeed, not doing so may void your warranty. Any breaches that are not treated can lead to water damage, dry rot and expensive repairs. Carry a roll of Eternabond tape in your toolbox for on-the-go repairs. Make checking the air-conditioner hold-down bolts part of the process, along with the A/C filter(s) — which, in dusty environments, may actually need to be serviced weekly.

Slideout seals. These are prime water-incursion points — seals that deteriorate can allow moisture and air to penetrate the interior. Treat them with a suitable protectant at least twice a year.

LP-gas leak-down test. Many RVers don’t have a clue this should be done annually — by a certified mechanic — even if the system hasn’t been opened for repairs. Replace the regulator every five years. Turn off LP-gas systems and ignitors before entering a station for refueling. Smell propane while on the road? Learn how to test for leaks, using a solution of soap and water or a commercial leak test solution.

As I said earlier, there’s a lot more to owning an RV than I’ve touched on here — from refrigerator cooling performance and twice-a-year exterior waxing to prevent oxidation and decal deterioration — but it’s a start. The message is simple: don’t overlook anything.

Much of this probably seems like old hat to many RV Enthusiast readers — but after seeing that post referred to earlier, I’ve learned to not take anything for granted. As the writer admitted in his post, “I’ve had a travel trailer for 10 years and never knew the importance of repacking your wheel bearings…”