Baby, it’s Cold Outside
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Baby, it’s Cold Outside
Adventurous RVers will be treated to another level of beautiful scenery, solitude and outdoor activities when winter camping. Proper planning will conquer many of the inherent challenges — including staying warm.
By Bob Livingston
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inter travel opens up so many new and adventurous opportunities that, at one time, were mostly avoided by RV enthusiasts. Conventional wisdom relegated RV travel to only three seasons, with winter reserved for hearty souls who didn’t mind struggling with nature to stay warm. Times have changed, and RVs are more capable than ever of taking on cold-weather challenges — but they’re not perfect. Proactive winter RVers can protect vulnerable systems and accessorize to make journeys to their favorite winter destinations not only possible, but downright comfortable.

As snowmobile and cross-country skiing/snowshoeing fanatics (somewhat of an anomaly for Southern California residents), traveling to snow country was an annual rite of passage for my family. Early trips were interesting, sans many of the modern technological advancements and accoutrements to keep us warm. Portable generators were not that portable and solar systems were way out of our budget back in the 1970s when we first started traveling to snow country, so we relied on batteries and some “Rube Goldberg ingenuity.” We were early adopters of 6-volt golf-cart batteries; to keep them charged in the field, we ran the tow vehicle at a high idle using a rock to hold the accelerator in place. Crude, but it worked.

First Things First
Before wandering out during winter, RV owners must make sure their rigs can handle slick roads. Motorhomes fare better in this department, but chains might be required. Those towing trailers and fifth-wheels must understand the limitations on icy, snow-covered roads and be prepared to stay off the road in terrible conditions. Don’t get lured into complacency because you have a four-wheel-drive tow vehicle, a similar drivetrain on a truck camper set-up or even on a Class B or Class C motorhome. Four-wheel-drive certainly helps but will not prevent sliding on icy roads if the vehicle is driven too fast for conditions. Always carry chains for all drive and trailer wheels — and make sure they fit before you head out. Many places allow passage without chains with four-wheel-drive and M+S-rated tires, but be prepared for severe conditions when chains will be mandatory regardless of the drive system.
Descending icy mountain roads can be particularly hazardous and requires precise driving manners to remain in control. When towing a trailer, especially without chains, slow down; sudden braking can send the trailer sliding out of control.

The bottom line: Respect the terrain and road conditions and don’t get in a hurry. I vividly remember one crossing over Donner Summit on California’s infamous Interstate 80, headed for Reno, Nevada. By the time we reached the summit, the weather had turned for the worst. Wind gusts were clocked close to 100 miles per hour, the roads were slick, there was no visibility other than a slight view of clearance lights on the commercial truck trailer we were following — and we were crawling. At the summit check point, I was cleared by the Highway Patrol to continue, but the driver of the truck in front, my only visible landmark, was required to pull over. We arrived at our destination in the wee hours of the morning, and even though I was piloting a four-wheel-drive truck with a camper on board, my fingers, literally, had to be pried off the steering wheel after arriving at the RV park.

The moral of the story: Be prepared for anything when crossing mountain passes by having enough water, food and warm clothing should you become sidelined while waiting for the weather to clear. We’ve had to do this many times and hanging out inside a toasty RV, sipping on hot coffee, is a lot more palatable than being in a passenger car, shivering under blankets.

Back Seat Heat Plus heater
Back Seat Heat is a compact, portable heater that operates on 12-volt DC power. It’s perfect for taking the chill out of cold spots and is used commonly by truckers. This diminutive heater can also be employed to thaw out pipes and valves, but it’s not waterproof, so make sure it is covered when outdoors.
Winter-Worthy Assessment
While “arctic” or “four-season” packages from the factory are becoming more common, it’s important to take a closer look at how the RV is outfitted and protected from extreme temperatures. For example, many four-season packages do not include dual-pane windows, a key component for successful cold-weather travel. Buying a new RV? Dual-pane windows will be one of the best investments you can make, providing increased comfort and temperature moderation, even in hot weather.

It’s not practical to retrofit an RV with dual-pane windows, but there are a few procedures that can help with heat loss and sweating window frames. For example, plastic film provided in commercially-available kits from companies including Frost King can be attached to the frames and stretched tight using a standard hair dryer. Adding the second layer provides a decent vapor barrier, without restricting light penetration and the view to the outside. The film can be removed when warmer weather arrives. Adding foam insulation boards and heavier window covers will help, but of course restricts visibility. Foam RV vent/skylight insulators also help and are readily available at RV supply stores and online.

Preventing water-system freeze-ups is just as important as regulating heat loss. Freezing temperatures can burst pipes and fittings, and at the very least, stop water flow. Plumbing routed in heated compartments, usually part of a factory winter package, will usually not freeze as long as warm air from the furnace keeps the temperature above 32 degrees F. Pipes, fittings, valves and the demand water pump exposed to sub-freezing temperatures are susceptible to freezing and must be protected with additional insulation. This is not a difficult job as long as the pipes and pump are accessible. Fiberglass batting, spray-foam insulation (must be fireproofed) and commercial pipe wrappings work well. Electric holding tank pads (12-volt DC and 120-volt AC models) should be added if the tank compartments are not heated and access is possible. Power heat wraps are also available for water pipes, and in some cases are the only defense against freeze-ups.

hair dryer is used to shrink plastic into a tight fit
Clear plastic sheeting in Frost King’s Window Insulation Shrink Kits can be applied to windows to create a vapor barrier. Once the plastic is cut and stuck to the window frame, a common hair dryer is used to shrink the plastic into a tight fit.
Insulating the areas below the floor with sheets of aluminum-backed foam
Insulating the areas below the floor with sheets of aluminum-backed foam helps prevent tank and plumbing freezing. This practice is becoming very popular with manufacturers as they transition their RVs to four-season capability.
Hooking up to water and sewer presents another issue in extreme cold weather. Count on the water hose freezing — which will obviously stop the flow — at the most inopportune times. Special heated hoses, like those made by Pirit, Camco and Valterra, work really well if power is available. And there is nothing more infuriating than a frozen dump valve and sewer hose. If you insist on leaving the sewer hose connected overnight, make sure it’s drained with the valves closed or it’s well insulated with a wrap designed for this purpose; otherwise, morning departures will be delayed until thawing. If you screw up (which we have done in the past by misjudging overnight temperatures), a hair dryer can facilitate thawing as long as you have a source of 120-volt AC power. We’ve actually strategically placed a small catalytic heater, commonly used by people in tents or hunters trying to stay warm in duck blinds, to thaw frozen dump valves.
Keeping The Lights On
If you’re in an RV park with an electric hookup, power is not much of a concern unless there is a temporary outage. Disconnecting the utility “umbilical cord,” however, allows for so many new adventures. Having your own mobile chalet in snow country with cross-country ski trails only steps away from the door will keep your spirits high — unless you run out of power. Onboard and portable generators temper the stress of relying on batteries, but advanced technology in DC power makes self-reliance possible without the inherent challenges RVers faced in the early years.
bunches of wires
Strategically routed furnace ducting and registers, usually part of a cold weather package from the factory, help keep space between the floor and underbelly warm, which helps prevent tank freezing. In many cases the storage compartments are also heated.
catalytic heater
Camco’s Olympian catalytic heater has been used by boondockers for years. It runs silently on LP-gas, requires no electricity and provides an even, soothing heat. It’s available in 3,000-, 6,000- and 8,000-Btu sizes and can be mounted on a wall or set-up on its own feet. Catalytic heaters consume oxygen, so make sure the RV is properly ventilated. These heaters should be covered when not in use.
Lithium batteries are game changers and, fortunately, have come down in price enough to make them affordable. They are lighter, can withstand more lifetime charging cycles, are more efficient and provide consistent voltage during deeper discharging sessions. Tied to a properly configured solar system and power inverter, owners can rely on clean power for extended periods of time. There are limitations, though, like a lack of sunshine due to cloudy weather and/or a snowpack on the solar panels. If you want interrupted power during winter travel, consider taking a portable generator along for those days when the solar panels are less active.
Hey, It’s Toasty Inside
Most RVers rely on an LP-gas-fired furnace to keep the interior, storage compartments and underbelly warm. Cracking open interior compartments and cabinets where plumbing is routed will help keep the pipes from freezing. In many cases the ducting from the furnace will heat exterior compartments and holding tanks, which is usually a feature included in a cold-weather package from the factory. Combustion chambers in most RV furnaces are typically only fired by LP-gas, although there is an aftermarket kit, CheapHeat by RV Comfort Systems, that can be added to utilize 120-volt AC power.

Energy efficient furnaces from Truma Corp. have added versatility to heating appliances during the last few years. Its Combi and VarioHeat systems operate on LP-gas or 120-volt AC power and provide even heat distribution and are super quiet. Heated floors and hydronic, diesel-fired heating systems found in motorhomes and some higher-end fifth-wheels also provide quiet, evenly distributed heat. And on the more exotic side, Alde’s hydronic radiant heating system keeps interior space and floors on an even keel without temperature fluctuation. The Alde system is usually reserved for smaller trailers and Class B motorhomes.

Winter Essentials & Pro Tips
  • Long-handle ice scraper — An absolutely universal tool for those who travel to cold regions during winter. To help melt ice, fill a spray bottle with windshield washer fluid rated to minus 20 degrees F.
  • Snow shovel — Goes along with ice scraper. Don’t travel in snow without one and make sure it has a folding handle to make storage easier.
  • Snow broom — Helps remove snow from slide-out toppers; look for one with a collapsible handle.
  • Fire extinguisher — Make sure the fire extinguisher is mounted properly in its designated location (which is required by code). Check extinguisher expiration dates and condition and recharge or replace, if necessary.
  • Traction device — There are two types of snow-country travelers: those who have gotten stuck and those who will get stuck. Sometimes a snow shovel is not enough. Traction boards, which can be placed under the drive wheels, can be a lifesaver.
  • Back seat heat — This is a handy device for heating cold spots. It runs on 12-volt DC power and is perfect for small areas like the cab of a truck or motorhome. While truckers use this heater all the time, there’s only enough heat to handle cold spots, not large areas. Just type “Back Seat Heat” into a search engine and you’ll find several vendors.
  • Waterproof flashlight — Mandatory equipment for anyone needing more light at night than what a smartphone can provide. Rechargeable models with high lumen ratings work best, but make sure the battery is always charged.
  • High-quality sewer hose — The more robust models, like the Camco Viper or Valterra Rhino, can better take the punishment of inclement weather. A bear stepped on a cheap model I was using many years ago. It didn’t make it.
  • Fill the freshwater tank — If the hose freezes, you’ll need to draw from the freshwater tank with the demand pump.
  • Top off LP-gas before leaving — Propane goes fast in winter, especially when running the furnace. Monitor tank/cylinder levels carefully.
  • Diesel fuel additives — Winter diesel blends are more easily found in high-volume truck stops, but they’re not always available. Use a diesel fuel additive to prevent gelling when traveling in extreme cold areas.
  • Monitor weather — Pay attention to the media weather person, even though he/she is often wrong. A smartphone and weather apps are your friends (NOAA Weather Live and My Radar Pro are good options).
  • Focus on insulation — If possible, use a foam board to insulate roof and outside sidewalls of each slide out. This will help with heat retention. Cut and tape the insulation material into foldable sections, since they can be a pain to store when not in use.
  • Elevate the dump hose — Keeping the dump hose off the ground is mandatory in certain areas, and just plan practical when the ground is frozen or covered with snow. Better yet, don’t use the dump hose if the temperature is too cold.
  • Don’t be incognito — Staying in touch is very important, especially if you get stuck or suffer a medical emergency. For the most part, a cell phone will save the day, unless there’s no service out in the boonies. In that case, a tracking tool, like the Spot portable rescue device (www.findmespot.com) can inform others that you are in need of assistance.
Standard onboard systems can be supplemented by a catalytic heater, powered by LP-gas. These heaters are efficient, quiet and require no electric power. The Olympian brand models from Camco have been a boondocker’s staple for years and are easy to set up once a source of LP-gas has been established. These heaters provide soothing heat and are practical for those camping without hookups, a generator or solar system. Catalytic heaters also consume oxygen; therefore, outside airflow must be maintained. Safety is paramount when using a catalytic heater and maintaining the required clearance from combustable items is also critical. If 120-volt AC power is available, there are a number of heat sources on the market that will take the chill out. Compact heaters with fans are easy to find and will provide maximum BTUs up to their standard power rating (usually 1,575 watts). I like the heaters made by Pelonis and the disc models offer effective heat in a small, easy-to-place housing. Generally they are safe, but adequate clearance from furniture and other combustibles is required. Parabolic models and convection heaters that can be mounted on wall or structure are viable, as long as the safety requirements can be maintained.

Fireplace heaters provide comparable BTUs to the aforementioned portable heaters and are quite safe. Just make sure the fireplace heaters are kept clean, in much the same manner as taking care of a portable heater. Never use the oven as a heating source, because it also consumes oxygen. Always make sure the LP-gas and CO (carbon monoxide) detectors and smoke alarm are in good working order, replacing batteries annually if so equipped. A properly working CO detector is especially important when running the generator, as it is possible for carbon monoxide to enter the interior. Be sure the generator exhaust pipe is not restricted by snow buildup. The use of a dehumidifier will help purge moisture from the air and limit window frame and wall sweating. While there are a number of dehumidifiers on the market, moisture-absorbing crystals from Dri-Z-Air and DampRid will help keep the air dryer without requiring a power source.

cleaning heater with compressed air and a nozzle
Heaters built into RV fireplaces offer comparable outputs to portable models commonly found on the internet and at home improvement stores. They provide a nice supplement to the furnace, as long as 120-volt AC power is available. The heater portion should be cleaned, using compressed air and a nozzle, at least once a year and even more often if used frequently.
slippery roads
Winter travel can provide unparalleled vistas, but it can also create havoc on slippery roads. The biggest problem many RVers face is that, in an emergency, they forget about all that weight they’re pulling.
Nomad trailer covered in snow
Waking up to scenery enhanced by glistening show flakes is always nice, but accumulated snow on the roof, awning and slide-out toppers requires removal. In most cases, the snow will have to be brushed off of slide-out toppers before moving the RV. This is not necessarily difficult, especially if the snow is light and fresh, but it might require climbing on the roof to reach the slide-out topper fabric. This can be extremely dangerous, requiring the utmost care when climbing onto a snow-covered roof. And if it rained during the day and the topper collected water, overnight freezing temperatures can create a sheet of ice on the fabric. Removing the ice is not fun but must be done if you have to depart before thawing. In any case, never try to retract a slide-out topper or awning with ice or snow covering the fabric.

Remember, patience is a virtue when traveling in cold country. Winter excursions in an RV can be challenging and require a lot more work. But the rewards can be breathtaking, especially for those who enjoy winter sports.

Sources:
Alde Corp.
(360) 597-3017
Alde.us

Camco Mfg.
(800) 334-2004
Camco.net

DampRid
(888) 326-7743
Damprid.com

Frost King/Thermwell Products
(201) 684-4400
Frostking.com

Pelonis Technologies
(888) 546-0524
Pelonistechnologies.com

Pirit Heated Products
(888) 747-4844
Pirithose.com

RV Comfort Systems
(425) 408-3140
Rvcomfortsystems.com

Truma Corp.
(855) 558-7862
Truma.net

Valterra Products
(818) 898-1671
Valterra.com