Royal Flush
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Royal Flush
When it comes to toilets, Thetford’s Aria Deluxe II with an electrically powered flushing mechanism raises the bar a big notch.
When it comes to toilets, Thetford’s Aria Deluxe II with an electrically powered flushing mechanism raises the bar a big notch.
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o RV can be considered self-contained without a bathroom — and, of course, a toilet. Unless you’re into potty humor, a toilet is one of those “things” that most owners take for granted; they only serve one purpose and are usually not top of mind until they break. The trend is to have a toilet that emulates those found in stationary homes, with preferences for porcelain and residential-type seats. These days, there are myriad toilets on the market for RVs, including those with electric- and/or vacuum-flushing mechanisms and Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) height compliance. For the most part, the majority of RV toilets have foot pedals for flushing and are made of plastic or porcelain. Nothing terribly exotic.

We first installed a Dometic 320 in our fifth wheel only days after delivery, replacing a smaller model that was less comfortable. It’s a good toilet, albeit the flushing stream a little anemic, but that wood seat was a game changer. While it provided decent service, full-time use pushed its limits, especially when it came to valve seal integrity. It was time for an upgrade.

We chose the Thetford Aria Deluxe II for its forceful — and complete — flushing cycles and because pushing a button has a certain appeal for those who enjoy automatic features and, frankly, like pushing buttons. The company’s big selling point is the ability to push the button and walk away, allowing the mechanism to complete the flushing cycle. And it works fabulously.

A length of black and red primary wire was located in our parts box for connecting the Aria toilet to 12-volt DC power. The ends were tinned with solder to make them rigid enough to fit into the distribution panel. The power wires were connected to an open, fused location in the power distribution panel on the other side of the bathroom wall.
A length of black and red primary wire was located in our parts box for connecting the Aria toilet to 12-volt DC power. The ends were tinned with solder to make them rigid enough to fit into the distribution panel. The power wires were connected to an open, fused location in the power distribution panel on the other side of the bathroom wall.
A length of black and red primary wire was located in our parts box for connecting the Aria toilet to 12-volt DC power. The ends were tinned with solder to make them rigid enough to fit into the distribution panel. The power wires were connected to an open, fused location in the power distribution panel on the other side of the bathroom wall.
Thetford’s Aria was mounted in the same space formerly occupied by the Dometic 320, using the standard 11 inches on-center dimension to assure it will fit over the hole in the floor and clear a back wall. The high-profile model (which was ordered in white) perched 17 ½ inches from the floor to the toilet seat for a comfortable seating position and easily cleared the sidewall. It sits on the existing closet flange as long as there is a provided 7/16-inch clearance from the floor. In this case, the toilet did not bolt to the slots in the flange, instead requiring that lag bolts are driven into the wood floor — a much better way to go.

Obviously, the installation process is more complicated than simply replacing one toilet with a similar product because 12-volt DC power must be routed to the back of the Thetford toilet and plumbing modifications are necessary (there’s no such thing as a universal installation). The procedure is not difficult, but it does take a little time to sort out the installation instructions.

The first step was to figure out a source for 12-volt DC power, which is needed to operate the flushing mechanism. Fortunately, the rig’s power distribution panel was on the other side the bathroom wall near the toilet location. A hole was drilled through the wall and wires snaked to the distribution box where they were connected to an open, fused 12-volt DC circuit. Before the toilet was installed, a new harness was connected to the existing wires in the back of the toilet using a two-prong connector.

While the toilet was propped up on the tow vehicle tailgate for wiring and plumbing, we oriented ourselves with the controls/override integrated into the back of the housing. An included manual override valve can be used to flush the toilet in the event of a power outage, but it takes some alacrity to get your hand in there to turn the knob once it’s installed. Nevertheless, it’s there and will get you out of a jam, if necessary. The other control allows you to switch from automatic flush — with a previously set level of water usage when hookups are available — to one that lets you control the amount of water manually when in a primitive environment.

The next step was mounting the toilet to the floor. Once the toilet was centered over the closet flange and the seal was in place, pilot holes were drilled and the bolts driven into the floor. Mounting the toilet directly to the floor provided much more support than bolting to the slots in the flange collar (which had a tendency to break over time under the weight of a heavier toilet).

A hole was drilled through the wall behind the toilet location to allow for the power wires to be snaked to the distribution panel.
A hole was drilled through the wall behind the toilet location to allow for the power wires to be snaked to the distribution panel.

Configuring the plumbing took some planning, but in the end, we employed Watts AquaLock Push-to-Connect fittings (watts.com) and a few inches of Pex tubing to make the connection. A barb-to-Pex adapter was hose-clamped to the existing water pipe to attach the fittings. Make sure you use high-quality, wide hose clamps — otherwise the connection will likely leak.

Some owners might consider the electric-flush mechanism to be somewhat of a novelty, but a controlled amount of water through the flushing cycle keeps the bowl cleaner with less risk of getting paper caught in the valve seal. It’s all about timing; there’s just the right amount of pulsating water to move the contents through the valve before it closes. Manual operation via a foot pedal, for example, requires the user leave the water running long enough, which can be problematic when guests not familiar with RV toilets use the facilities. Also, kids tend to close a manual valve too soon.

Water can be added to the bowl, when necessary, by pushing the smaller of the two buttons on the left side of the toilet. Be prepared to use more water when flushing in residential mode. This is not a problem when hooked up and, as a matter of fact, the extra amount of water assures that the holding tank contents will be diluted enough to help with a more forceful flow when dumping. This will help prevent the dreaded build-up when not enough water is used during traditional, foot-pedal flushing. Consequently, the time it takes to flush the holding tank was reduced substantially — a nice side benefit of having controlled water flow during flushing. There’s little doubt the Thetford Aria is worth the money ($670-750 street prices). It takes a little time to get used to the sound of the “flushing monster” when the mechanism is activated, but that’s part of the interaction of the gurgling water and motor noise when the valve opens and closed.

It’s hard to believe that flushing a toilet could be this much fun.

The existing plug on the end of the power leads in back of the toilet was cut to make way for the two-prong connector we located in our spare parts box. The toilet did not come with a wiring pigtail. The other end of the connector was attached to the wires leading to the distribution panel.
The existing plug on the end of the power leads in back of the toilet was cut to make way for the two-prong connector we located in our spare parts box. The toilet did not come with a wiring pigtail. The other end of the connector was attached to the wires leading to the distribution panel.
The existing plug on the end of the power leads in back of the toilet was cut to make way for the two-prong connector we located in our spare parts box. The toilet did not come with a wiring pigtail. The other end of the connector was attached to the wires leading to the distribution panel.
Hooking up the water source to the Aria toilet takes some planning because there is no such thing as a universal fit. The toilet was set on the tow vehicle tailgate and a box of fittings was dumped out to find the right ones for the job.
Hooking up the water source to the Aria toilet takes some planning because there is no such thing as a universal fit. The toilet was set on the tow vehicle tailgate and a box of fittings was dumped out to find the right ones for the job.
The water inlet threads on the toilet were wrapped with Teflon tape before the AquaLock fitting was installed. Using Push-To-Connect fittings makes the job much easier.
The water inlet threads on the toilet were wrapped with Teflon tape before the AquaLock fitting was installed. Using Push-To-Connect fittings makes the job much easier.
The water inlet threads on the toilet were wrapped with Teflon tape before the AquaLock fitting was installed. Using Push-To-Connect fittings makes the job much easier.
A knob on the backside of the toilet can be turned to open or close the toilet valve manually, should power be lost. Access to this knob is restricted once the toilet is mounted, but you can still get your hand on the knob.
A knob on the backside of the toilet can be turned to open or close the toilet valve manually, should power be lost. Access to this knob is restricted once the toilet is mounted, but you can still get your hand on the knob.
When in the residential mode, the toilet flushes with a prescribed amount of water, which is fine when hookups are available. A manual flushing mode can be selected when in a primitive camp area where water is limited.
When in the residential mode, the toilet flushes with a prescribed amount of water, which is fine when hookups are available. A manual flushing mode can be selected when in a primitive camp area where water is limited.
The first step for removal of the old toilet is to shut off the water supply (or turn off the demand pump) and remove the existing water line. Regardless, water will drain out of the pipe, so be prepared to catch the water in a paper bowl or wipe it up with a towel.
The existing plug on the end of the power leads in back of the toilet was cut to make way for the two-prong connector we located in our spare parts box. The toilet did not come with a wiring pigtail. The other end of the connector was attached to the wires leading to the distribution panel.
The first step for removal of the old toilet is to shut off the water supply (or turn off the demand pump) and remove the existing water line. Regardless, water will drain out of the pipe, so be prepared to catch the water in a paper bowl or wipe it up with a towel.
Existing hold-down nuts were removed from the old toilet. Normally, studs are mounted through the floor flange slots, but this system will not be utilized for the Aria toilet.
Existing hold-down nuts were removed from the old toilet. Normally, studs are mounted through the floor flange slots, but this system will not be utilized for the Aria toilet.
Before positioning the Aria toilet on the floor flange, the seal must be in place. A new seal comes with the installation kit.
Before positioning the Aria toilet on the floor flange, the seal must be in place. A new seal comes with the installation kit.
Once the toilet is centered on the floor flange, 3/16-inch pilot holes were drilled through the base of the toilet and into the floor. The surrounding porcelain was masked with painter’s tape to prevent scratching while drilling. The holes must be drilled at an angle, which can be a little tricky. If the existing floor flange provides a 7/16-inch clearance from the floor, it can be reused; otherwise, there is a new flange with the installation kit. It’s best to drive the hold-down bolts with a ratcheting, closed end wrench. Do no overtighten; the bolts are torqued to 20-23 in.-lb.
Once the toilet is centered on the floor flange, 3/16-inch pilot holes were drilled through the base of the toilet and into the floor. The surrounding porcelain was masked with painter’s tape to prevent scratching while drilling. The holes must be drilled at an angle, which can be a little tricky. If the existing floor flange provides a 7/16-inch clearance from the floor, it can be reused; otherwise, there is a new flange with the installation kit. It’s best to drive the hold-down bolts with a ratcheting, closed end wrench. Do no overtighten; the bolts are torqued to 20-23 in.-lb.
Once the toilet is centered on the floor flange, 3/16-inch pilot holes were drilled through the base of the toilet and into the floor. The surrounding porcelain was masked with painter’s tape to prevent scratching while drilling. The holes must be drilled at an angle, which can be a little tricky. If the existing floor flange provides a 7/16-inch clearance from the floor, it can be reused; otherwise, there is a new flange with the installation kit. It’s best to drive the hold-down bolts with a ratcheting, closed end wrench. Do no overtighten; the bolts are torqued to 20-23 in.-lb.
Routing the water source to the toilet took a little time to figure out. Here the original supply hose was cut and an adapter was attached with a wide hose clamp for a connection into the AquaLock fitting.
Routing the water source to the toilet took a little time to figure out. Here the original supply hose was cut and an adapter was attached with a wide hose clamp for a connection into the AquaLock fitting.
This would be a good time to add an inline valve to turn off the water when needed. This one is an AquaLock Push-To-Connect valve, which only takes a few seconds to install. Unfortunately, this one leaked, so it was pulled from the installation. This is a rare occurrence with these fittings.
This would be a good time to add an inline valve to turn off the water when needed. This one is an AquaLock Push-To-Connect valve, which only takes a few seconds to install. Unfortunately, this one leaked, so it was pulled from the installation. This is a rare occurrence with these fittings.
AquaLock fittings and a few inches of Pex tubing facilitated the water hook up to the new Aria toilet. These fittings are readily available on Amazon.
AquaLock fittings and a few inches of Pex tubing facilitated the water hook up to the new Aria toilet. These fittings are readily available on Amazon.
The Aria Deluxe II toilet fit nicely in the allocated space. There was plenty of room between the sidewall and toilet for users to get their hands on the buttons to operate the flushing mechanism.
The Aria Deluxe II toilet fit nicely in the allocated space. There was plenty of room between the sidewall and toilet for users to get their hands on the buttons to operate the flushing mechanism.
Thetford’s flushing mechanism is the best in the business. It moves the contents with enough force to keep the bowl clean.
Thetford’s flushing mechanism is the best in the business. It moves the contents with enough force to keep the bowl clean.
While we were not enamored with the plastic toilet seat, it’s comfortable. The plastic hinge bolts have a tendency to loosen but can be reached from the sides for tightening.
While we were not enamored with the plastic toilet seat, it’s comfortable. The plastic hinge bolts have a tendency to loosen but can be reached from the sides for tightening.
The buttons are easy to learn, but just in case, operational instructions can be attached to a nearby wall for guests who are not familiar with this toilet.
The buttons are easy to learn, but just in case, operational instructions can be attached to a nearby wall for guests who are not familiar with this toilet.
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