nytime a group of RVers get together, one sure topic of conversation is the “towing capacity” of their rig — and we’re not just talking about pickup trucks. Motorhomes also are rated by their manufacturers with a maximum weighted ability to pull “stuff” across the country.
On the other hand, one topic usually overlooked — but shouldn’t be — is their rig’s cargo-carrying capacity, especially for a self-contained coach not traveling with a dinghy. And since you won’t see a “toad” behind a Class B motorhome, what owners put inside their conversion vans (and even smaller Class A and Class C motorhomes) has a big effect on how they handle.
Unfortunately, one of the upgrades that RV owners often overlook is replacing the OEM shocks on their motorhome. Shocks wear out just like tires. The wear process of shocks (or struts) is slow and usually goes unnoticed by the person behind the wheel. What is readily noticed, however, is replacing the old, worn-out shocks with premium versions because this instantly makes a big difference in ride quality. Even replacing the OEM shocks on new motorized RVs can make a welcomed change in ride and handling.
As an example, one shock upgrade that really helps the ride and handling of Class C motorhomes built on the popular Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500 cab chassis, as well as Class B Sprinter vans, is installing KONI Heavy Track Shocks “Reds” (#87-2657) up front. These struts have an adjustable rebound setting that can make a big difference in controlling ride quality on the 2007-newer Sprinter 2500 and 3500 Sprinters, Sprinter-based RVs and commercial vans.
We followed along as Tommy Henderson, the R&D manager at Henderson’s Line-Up Brake & RV in Grants Pass, Oregon, swapped in a set of KONI Reds ($580/pair) on a customer’s 2021 Winnebago Navion. This is a job an RV DIYer can easily handle with basic hand tools and an impact gun (and a friend helps). However, the motorhome will need to be taken to a front-end specialist to have the suspension re-aligned after replacing the struts.
Once the strut is in position, you can go ahead and tighten the two lower bolts. The alignment shop will do the final adjustments and torquing procedures.