hen RVs travel down the road, they flex and twist. Manufacturers plan for this by using a pliable sealant at all joints and seams, but it’s not perfect. After years of use, the sealant eventually dries out — and as the RV is subjected to less-than-optimum road surfaces, the dried-out sealant cracks. Eventually, all this movement makes seams vulnerable to water damage.

In an attempt to stop or fix water leaks, RV owners will usually add more sealant, but more often than not, this does not solve the problem. When an inspection reveals water damage — or compromised seams where water can find a way in — the only option is to remove the suspect seal and replace it.

That’s not as difficult as it might sound. Just about anyone familiar with what’s in his or her toolbox can replace the errant seal in an afternoon. You’ll need a cordless screw gun, caulking gun, staple gun and the Seal-Tite Corner Seal Kit from Dicor Products, a division of Dicor Corp. This kit contains everything needed to provide a durable, flexible and virtually impermeable seal between the exposed corners: two rolls of high-tack adhesive tape, six tubes of non-sag cap sealant, a plastic putty knife and a spray bottle for water used in the clean-up process. Between the cap sealant and the tape, there’s enough product to repair about 100 linear feet, and the tape comes in three widths — 1.25, 1.5 and 2 inches — for covering just about any problem. The tape also is extremely flexible, which is perfect for conforming to the contours of a corrugated exterior RV wall used in many stick-and-tin towables.

One note here: Like most everything else, the key to a good seal is proper prep. Thoroughly clean the surfaces of any residue from the previous butyl tape/caulking. Now also is a good time to inspect the screws (and staples, if so equipped) you’ve removed; replace any that are rusted to ensure an optimum seal held together as tightly as possible.

To make sure the corner seal is applied accurately, temporarily hold the cleaned molding on the RV corner being repaired and carefully mark the wall along the edge of the molding with a pencil — this will serve as a guide when applying the tape. Now, apply the tape, starting at the top. Following the pencil lines, press the tape firmly to ensure it conforms to the siding. Follow this up with a half-inch bead of the cap sealant along either side of the inside of the corner molding. While the tape will seal the corner by itself, the non-sag sealant acts as a secondary line of defense against the elements.

Now, replace the trim molding — again, using new screws if necessary — and tighten the screws until the sealant just begins to ooze out from under the edge of the molding. Do not over-tighten. Use the putty knife to remove any excess sealant. Apply a small finishing bead of sealant to the exterior seams of the molding, then spray it with water from the bottle so it won’t stick to the tip of your finger or a shop towel as you smooth it out. Finish the job by reinstalling the insert trim.

As noted earlier, this isn’t a difficult job — and neither is it an expensive repair when you do it yourself. The complete Seal-Tite Corner Seal Kit — available through Dicor Products, online or at most RV dealer accessory stores — will set you back about $140-$160, depending upon the width of the tape required. The final product will not only look good, but you can rest assured there won’t be any more leaks from the resealed corner molding.