Going Back in Time
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Making Memories
By Sue Strauss photos by author
Going Back in Time
Arizona’s Canyon de Chelly, once home to ancient native American tribes, offers spectacular views of a holy land — and a history lesson through amazingly preserved “rock art.”
distant view of a masonry dwelling known as Mummy Cave
A masonry dwelling known as Mummy Cave is a large cliff dwelling with a three-story tower, occupied from 300-1300 AD.
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he state of Arizona is home to 22 Native American tribes, each living on their own tribal lands (reservations). The largest of these reservations is the Navajo Nation Tribal Land, located in the northeast corner of Arizona. On this reservation lies one of the Navajo’s holiest sites, Canyon de Chelly (pronounced de-shay) — a canyon that exudes a quiet magic and spirituality. This area was carved out over the course of millions of years by water flow from the Rio de Chelly in addition to years of land uplifts, which created the colorful sheer cliff walls. The canyon cliffs glow pink, yellow and orange and offer breathtaking scenery.

This Navajo holy site is one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes in North America. Evidence of the first settlers, the Anasazi Indians (more recently called Ancient Puebloan people), who lived in pit houses in the canyon around 1150 A.D. Later, the Anasazi moved from pit houses to building homes in the caves and alcoves of the canyon walls. The remains of numerous multi-storied masonry dwellings can still be found in the sandstone cliffs of this canyon. By the mid-1300s, the Anasazi people left the canyon and moved elsewhere because of drought conditions. The Hopi tribe then moved into the canyon and planted crops of corn and peaches. Hundreds of years later, the Hopi also left the canyon and moved to the mesa tops. The Navajo tribe later moved into the canyon, created farms on the floor of the canyon, planted crops, raised livestock and built dome-shaped hogans as their homes. To this day, the canyon is still inhabited by Navajo families.

a view down into Canyon de Chelly from one of the overlooks on the South Rim drive
A view down into Canyon de Chelly from one of the overlooks on the South Rim drive.
History shows that the canyon was explored by many different groups during the 1800s, but the Spanish were amongst the first non-Native Americans to discover this canyon, followed by the first Anglo-Americans of the Walker Expedition in 1847. In 1863, the U.S. government ordered the relocation of the Navajo tribe to New Mexico. Colonel Kit Carson led army troops into the canyon to relocate the Navajo, killing 23 Indians and destroying their homes. Scientific explorations were later conducted in the 1880s to study the ancient ruins found in Canyon de Chelly. Reports of these scientific studies were published in magazines, bringing awareness to the general public about these ancient ruins. Unfortunately, visitors soon started coming to the canyon, looting and damaging the ruins.

President Herbert Hoover established Canyon de Chelly National Monument in 1931 to preserve the archeological resources in this canyon dating back more than 4,000 years. The canyon is considered a sacred outdoor “museum” of the Navajo nation. This National Monument Park covers almost 84,000 acres, all of which is on Navajo Nation Land. Canyon de Chelly National Monument is managed by a partnership of the National Park Service and the Navajo Nation, but the land is still owned by the Navajo Tribal Trust.

the Spider Rock Overlook on the South Rim drive
From the Spider Rock Overlook on the South Rim drive, visitors can clearly see the double-column spire that stands 800 feet from the canyon floor. The Navajo believe that Spider Woman, who taught the people how to weave, lives on top of the tallest sandstone spire.
distant aerial view of the White House ruin

The White House ruin is the best-known cliff dwelling in Canyon de Chelly. This ruin had up to 80 rooms and four kivas during its most heavily used years and is the largest ruin in the canyon. These masonry cliff dwellings were built by the Anasazi.

Canyon de Chelly actually encompasses the floors and rims of three major canyons, including Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto and Monument Canyon. Canyon del Muerto, which means Canyon of the Dead, got its name when an ancient burial ground was discovered. The 84,000-acre canyon area offers breathtaking views and has several prominent unique features. The most distinctive geologic feature in the canyon is Spider Rock, a spire of sandstone that rises about 800 feet from the canyon floor at the juncture of Canyon de Chelly and Monument Canyon. This is one of the more sacred spots in the canyon; according to Navajo beliefs, a Spider Woman lives on top of this spire. The Navajo believe that Spider Woman was the one who taught their ancient tribes to weave. Another prominent feature in the canyon is White House ruin, built by the Anasazi Indians around 1060 AD. More rooms were added during the next 200 years, totaling up to 80 rooms and four kivas during its most heavily used period. The White House ruin is the largest of the ruins in Canyon de Chelly, and visitors can tour the ruin with a Native guide. One other notable prominent feature in the canyon is Mummy Cave, a large cliff dwelling with a three-story tower. Researchers found that this dwelling was occupied from 300-1300 AD.

Canyon de Chelly contains more than 2,500 archeological sites. In addition to the numerous masonry cliff dwellings that have been found in caves and built into recesses in the canyon walls, a great amount of prehistoric rock art — more than 100 locations — can be found on the cliff walls throughout the canyon. Amazingly, these ancient pictures have withstood the elements and weather over thousands of years, and can still be viewed today.

a panel of rock art located in Canyon de Chelly

Canyon de Chelly is home to more than 2,500 archeological sites and 100 rock art locations. This panel of rock art is one of the largest in the canyon.

Most visitors to Canyon de Chelly National Monument stop first at the Welcome Center, located in the nearby town of Chinle, Arizona. Here you will learn of the ancient inhabitants of the canyon and view exhibits explaining the history of the area. While in Chinle, visitors can also stop at the Thunderbird Lodge, which was built on the site of an old Indian trading post. In addition to lodging, the Thunderbird Lodge offers an all-day cafeteria, which serves traditional Native American food. From here, visitors can travel to the National Monument Park, which is free of charge; it is technically not owned by the National Park Service or federal government. Access to the canyon floor is restricted, so most visitors view it from the rim of the canyon. Two scenic rim drives are available, encompassing nine overlook areas. The North Rim Drive is an 18-mile drive that follows around the rim of Canyon del Muerto. The South Rim Drive is a 16-mile drive with stops at the Tseyi Overlook, Junction Overlook, Spider Rock Overlook and White House Overlook. At the White House Overlook, a steep one-mile trail is open for visitors who would like to take a closer look at the White House ruins. This is the only access into the canyon available to the general public.
naturally colored rock art depicting animals in the canyon
These rock art images are actually in color, and depict various animals in the canyon. They are thought to have been drawn at a later time than the simple drawings primarily done in white.
In order to see the many ancient cliff dwellings and rock art “up close” you need to arrange a tour with a Navajo guide. Native guides are required to ensure the privacy of the 40-plus Navajo families that currently live on the canyon floor and to ensure that their native sacred space is respected and protected. Horseback riding tours or hiking tours are offered, as well as Jeep tours, sometimes called “Shake ‘n Bake Tours” due to the bumpy roads and the summer heat. We reserved a three-hour Jeep tour several days in advance, and our native guide shared stories of his ancestors while showing us several of the ancient cliff dwellings and rock art throughout the canyon. The fee for the tour (approximately $60 for two people) was quite reasonable and was money well-spent. You can go to www.canyondechellytours.com to find a list of authorized tour operators for any of the Navajo Tribal Lands.
a panel of rock located on a canyon wall, showing animal and human figures and handprints

This panel of rock art, found on one of the canyon walls, clearly shows many human and animal figures. Other unknown symbols and what appear to be handprints can also be seen.

upward view of the canyon wall showing signs of years of mineral deposits and erosion
A look at the red canyon walls in Canyon de Chelly gives evidence of years of mineral deposits and erosion. The staining of these walls is known as “Desert Varnish.”
an unusual rock formation, often referred to as “2 Dog Formation,” is in Canyon de Chelly

This unusual rock formation, often referred to as “2 Dog Formation,” is in Canyon de Chelly

a masonry cliff dwelling with a very large rock art image painted to its right within Canyon de Chelly

Another archeological site within Canyon de Chelly is a masonry cliff dwelling with a very large rock art image painted to its right.

a cave opening with rough stairs carved along the entrance wall
In this photo, you can clearly see “steps” or a staircase carved into the wall to the left of the cave. These steps were carved out by ancestral people, perhaps wanting to reach the mesa top for farming.
There are no campgrounds within Canyon de Chelly National Monument Park. The closest campgrounds are located in the town of Chinle. Cottonwood Campground, managed by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department, is located ½ mile south of the Canyon de Chelly Welcome Center and offers 90 sites with no hookups. There are restrooms (toilets and sinks only) throughout the campground and a dump station is located in Loop 1. This campground can accommodate RVs up to 40 feet and the fees are $14 per night. A second campground, Spider Rock, is located on Navajo Highway 7 in Chinle and also has no hook-ups; the cost at Spider Rock Campground is $16 per night. For more information, call the Navajo Campgrounds at 928-674-2106 or e-mail: cdc@navajonationparks.org. I would highly recommend spending a few nights at one of these nearby campgrounds in order to give yourselves enough time to do one (or both) of the rim drive tours, as well as going into the canyon on foot, horseback or Jeep with a native guide. You really can’t see the rock art or many of the cliff house dwellings without being down on the canyon floor. Once you’ve had the opportunity to “relish in the paths of the ancient ones” you will have a better understanding of this sacred place and why the Navajo people say: “Hozh’o for future generations.”
Suzanne Strauss
Suzanne Strauss portrait

Suzanne Strauss and her husband, Rich, have been full-time RVers for about four years. They started out camping on weekends in a pup tent; eventually, they bought a small single-axle travel trailer to “test the waters” and fell in love with RVing. Now living full-time in a motorhome, they ply the roadways in search of interesting and “off the beaten path” places. She can be reached at: RStrauss22@gmail.com