Gate Keeper
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Gate Keeper black typographic title in all uppercase letters form with white strokes around each letter
A portrait photograph of a man in a blue Patagonia jacket giving the thumbs up gesture grinning as the back bed/trunk door of the truck is open halfways on a gloomy cloudy day outside on a curb nearby a house and parked RV in the front yard
Gate Keeper black typographic title in all uppercase letters form with white strokes around each letter
A pickup tailgate that free falls when opening is disconcerting at best and prone to hitting into something at worst. Installing a strut to slow down the process levels the playing field.
By Bill Gehr / Photos by Lorie Swaffer
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ulling a fifth wheel with a pickup truck makes it necessary open and close the tailgate several times a day. You know the drill: open the tailgate to hitch up, close to get going, open to unhitch, close to use the truck as a daily driver, open to unload chairs and other things, and so on. It’s not rocket science, but I can’t even remember how many times I’ve had my hands full and accidentally let the tailgate slam open. And, unfortunately, there’s a lot of weight in motion when the tailgate falls open — and over time, the wear-and-tear on the hinges can lead to expensive repairs, not to mention the sheet metal damage if you happen to let it fall onto the A-frame jack when a travel trailer is still hitched up.

The Tailgate assist kit includes all the parts necessary — and even a couple of rudimentary tools — to install the parts in about an hour. Instructions come with photos but still required some intuition.
The Tailgate assist kit includes all the parts necessary — and even a couple of rudimentary tools — to install the parts in about an hour. Instructions come with photos but still required some intuition.
Recognizing this dilemma, some new trucks are outfitted with a tailgate opening assist, which slowly regulates the downward movement. This convenient feature spurred me to seek out an aftermarket device that can do the same thing. Of course, the first place I looked was Amazon — and just what I needed popped up. There were several kits to choose from, so I relied on the reviews to find one that would not only work well but last without breaking; the other priority was ease of installation. As a result, I settled on the Tailgate Assist Shock Strut 43301 Silver Classic for $24.29. This kit is designed for the 2009-2018 Ram trucks, which fit the parameters for the 2017 3500 dually project truck.

The Install
The first thing I noticed was that the directions were vague, prompting me to improvise somewhat. For example, the instructions did not call for the removal of the bolt in the rivet nut (an inserted fitting with threads). It was obvious that you had to remove the bolt, but it might be confusing to some people. I also quickly figured out the need to wear gloves when installing the rivet nut into the tailgate because the Allen wrench would dig into my hand from the pressure necessary to tighten the rivet nut properly. The rivet nut was also sloppy when positioned in the existing hole in the tailgate, requiring a lot of pressure to hold it in place while the bolt was tightened to flair out the material as it seats into the sheet metal.

As hard as I tried, it still came out a little bit crooked, but sufficed. The directions call for rotating the rivet nut nine turns for proper seating, which means you’ll have to mark the side of the nut with a felt pen (or Liquid White-Out) so you can count the revolutions. That said, the wrench covers the nut, making it difficult to count turns. If the rivet nut is still loose or spinning in the tailgate it must be tightened two additional turns (as per the instructions), which is what we needed to do for proper seating in this case. However, be careful you don’t overtighten the rivet nut; if you strip the threads, you will likely not be able to purchase another one without buying a complete kit — and you’ll have to wrestle with getting it out.

Once the rivet nut was seated, a lower ball mount plate was installed using a 4mm Allen wrench to screw the bolt through the plate and into the tailgate. Here again, the directions were rather vague, but a little intuition clarified the process. Next, the existing cable and bolt that’s connected to the truck bed were removed using the supplied T45 Torx wrench. This cable is what stops the tailgate from opening too far. I had to use a short piece of pipe on the wrench because the bolt was much tighter than what the small Torx wrench could handle; gloves also helped here. (Note: We used the provided tools to determine if they would work; most do-it-yourselfers will have more robust tools. I recommend a long handle ratchet with a Torx socket.)

A rivet nut was installed in an existing hole in the tailgate. Before starting the process, the bolt must be set to the designated length called out in the instructions.
A rivet nut was installed in an existing hole in the tailgate. Before starting the process, the bolt must be set to the designated length called out in the instructions.
At this point, the upper ball-mount plate was installed using the existing bolt that secured the cable end. No torque specification is provided, so just make sure it is tight. The cable end goes back into the original position — snapped over the bolt. The rubber bumper below the cable was then removed by cutting the plastic rivet and prying it out. If this bumper is not removed, it will interfere with movement of the gas strut.

The bottom end of the cable and limiter that is attached to the tailgate were then removed. The tabs on the limiter needed to be flattened with a hammer and punch — again, to prevent interference with strut movement when the tailgate opens and closes. To keep the cable away from the strut during tailgate movement, a provided clip was installed 3 ½ inches from the top. The installation point was marked with White Out (a black felt pen will not show on the black cable) and the clip snapped on with pliers. This may seem easy, but it was difficult to slip the clip over the cable at first. I found that using a little bit of WD-40 helped make it work (there was no mention in the directions of using a lubricant here to facilitate the process).

The final step was to install the gas strut with the bigger body end on the upper ball (mounted below the upper cable) by pushing the clip in place; the lower ball (on strut the end of the arm) was then installed, and the job was done. The upper and lower balls can be released by using a screwdriver to pry the retaining clip outward while pulling on the gas strut.

Satisfied with the installation, I released the tailgate latch and watched it slowly drop to its fully open position. I was pleasantly surprised how smoothly the tailgate glided without any interference on the strut. I opened and closed it a few more times to make sure that something didn’t bend or move — and at that point, I stopped thinking about buying a new truck.

In order for the rivet nut to seat properly, the black nut must be turned at least nine rotations with a 10mm wrench (not supplied). Liquid White Out was used to mark the nut to count rotations. An extra two turns were needed to seat tightly, but the rivet nut was still a little cattywampus — but it worked.
In order for the rivet nut to seat properly, the black nut must be turned at least nine rotations with a 10mm wrench (not supplied). Liquid White Out was used to mark the nut to count rotations. An extra two turns were needed to seat tightly, but the rivet nut was still a little cattywampus — but it worked.
At first, a short Allen wrench was used to turn the bolt to set the rivet nut, but in order to get the extra two turns done, we needed a heavier-duty T-Allen wrench (not shown). Once the rivet nut is seated, the bolt-and-washer assembly were removed. The washer and bearing fell apart after removal so they were round-filed.
At first, a short Allen wrench was used to turn the bolt to set the rivet nut, but in order to get the extra two turns done, we needed a heavier-duty T-Allen wrench (not shown). Once the rivet nut is seated, the bolt-and-washer assembly were removed. The washer and bearing fell apart after removal so they were round-filed.
At first, a short Allen wrench was used to turn the bolt to set the rivet nut, but in order to get the extra two turns done, we needed a heavier-duty T-Allen wrench (not shown). Once the rivet nut is seated, the bolt-and-washer assembly were removed. The washer and bearing fell apart after removal so they were round-filed.
The lower plate with ball was attached to the tailgate using a countersunk bolt threaded into the rivet nut with a 4mm Allen wrench (not supplied).
The lower plate with ball was attached to the tailgate using a countersunk bolt threaded into the rivet nut with a 4mm Allen wrench (not supplied).
In order to remove the bolt on the side of the truck bed, the T45 Torx wrench (supplied with the kit) required a cheater pipe to break it loose. This bolt was extremely tight and stubborn to remove. The supplied wrench is pretty cheesy, so using a ratchet with a Torx socket would work much better.
In order to remove the bolt on the side of the truck bed, the T45 Torx wrench (supplied with the kit) required a cheater pipe to break it loose. This bolt was extremely tight and stubborn to remove. The supplied wrench is pretty cheesy, so using a ratchet with a Torx socket would work much better.
The upper mounting plate with the ball was attached to the bed with the existing bolt. The cable was attached at the time, but can also be removed and installed independently using the locking clip. While there were no torque specs for this bolt, it must be very tight.
The upper mounting plate with the ball was attached to the bed with the existing bolt. The cable was attached at the time, but can also be removed and installed independently using the locking clip. While there were no torque specs for this bolt, it must be very tight.
A diagonal cutter was used to cut a plastic rivet that held the rubber bumper in place. This bumper must be removed before the strut can be installed. It twisted off once the rivet was cut.
A diagonal cutter was used to cut a plastic rivet that held the rubber bumper in place. This bumper must be removed before the strut can be installed. It twisted off once the rivet was cut.
A diagonal cutter was used to cut a plastic rivet that held the rubber bumper in place. This bumper must be removed before the strut can be installed. It twisted off once the rivet was cut.
The bolt that secures the lower cable eyelet (to control the amount of tailgate travel) was removed to access the limiter plate to straighten the tabs. At first, a pliers was used to bend the tabs, but it didn’t work. Consequently, a punch and hammer (suggested in the instructions) made short work out of flattening the tabs. The limiter cannot be removed from the locking washer, so maneuvering the punch is a little tricky. Once flattened the limiter and cable end were replaced in the original position.
The bolt that secures the lower cable eyelet (to control the amount of tailgate travel) was removed to access the limiter plate to straighten the tabs. At first, a pliers was used to bend the tabs, but it didn’t work. Consequently, a punch and hammer (suggested in the instructions) made short work out of flattening the tabs. The limiter cannot be removed from the locking washer, so maneuvering the punch is a little tricky. Once flattened the limiter and cable end were replaced in the original position.
The bolt that secures the lower cable eyelet (to control the amount of tailgate travel) was removed to access the limiter plate to straighten the tabs. At first, a pliers was used to bend the tabs, but it didn’t work. Consequently, a punch and hammer (suggested in the instructions) made short work out of flattening the tabs. The limiter cannot be removed from the locking washer, so maneuvering the punch is a little tricky. Once flattened the limiter and cable end were replaced in the original position.
Measure 3 ½ inches from the upper end of the cable and mark the location for installing the cable clip provided in the kit. This clip provides rigidity to prevent the cable from getting tangled in the strut. After struggling to snap it over the cable (with pliers) a shot of WD-40 helped reduce friction — but it still needed a bit of persuasion.
Measure 3 ½ inches from the upper end of the cable and mark the location for installing the cable clip provided in the kit. This clip provides rigidity to prevent the cable from getting tangled in the strut. After struggling to snap it over the cable (with pliers) a shot of WD-40 helped reduce friction — but it still needed a bit of persuasion.
Measure 3 ½ inches from the upper end of the cable and mark the location for installing the cable clip provided in the kit. This clip provides rigidity to prevent the cable from getting tangled in the strut. After struggling to snap it over the cable (with pliers) a shot of WD-40 helped reduce friction — but it still needed a bit of persuasion.
Lastly, the strut was installed on the balls attached to the brackets. The upper, thicker end, goes on first. The lower arm needed to be compressed to locate the socket on the ball. A small-blade screwdriver can be used to lift the retainers on the sockets that go over the balls should the strut need to be removed.
Lastly, the strut was installed on the balls attached to the brackets. The upper, thicker end, goes on first. The lower arm needed to be compressed to locate the socket on the ball. A small-blade screwdriver can be used to lift the retainers on the sockets that go over the balls should the strut need to be removed.
Lastly, the strut was installed on the balls attached to the brackets. The upper, thicker end, goes on first. The lower arm needed to be compressed to locate the socket on the ball. A small-blade screwdriver can be used to lift the retainers on the sockets that go over the balls should the strut need to be removed.
A test run proved the strut was able to control the tailgate smoothy as it opens fully. After numerous cycles over a few months, the strut is working perfectly.
A test run proved the strut was able to control the tailgate smoothy as it opens fully. After numerous cycles over a few months, the strut is working perfectly.
Look ma — no hands!
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